Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Reef 1

Forty Something S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Number 8 S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skin to Win S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Cool Junior S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: 1985 by Mike Nona and Brad Edwards
Page Views: 152 total, 1/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jul 17, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


35 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Way Cool Junior is the route furthest left on this formation. It is probably only 5.6 or maybe even 5.5 - but makes an excellent first lead(it was mine).

Climb up the leftmost line of bolts. You could conceivably hit the ground before clipping bolt 2, but as a first lead this was very comfortable so I wouldn't worry about it. Decent easy route, but there are better at Rushmore.

Protection

Draws

Photos

Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.7+ R
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.7+ R
The bizarre bolting creates a contrived element of danger and detracts from what would otherwise be quite a nice little route. Some of the holds in the runout also seemed to be a bit flexible-- scary! May 2, 2013
steve richert
Taunton MA
steve richert   Taunton MA
I dont see the point in having a bolt at eye-level (when standing on the ground) and then a 18 foot run-out to the next bolt. Its illogical as well as unsafe. Jul 18, 2008
I was at this climb a couple of days ago. a guy came walking by and mentioned that he was the F.A. of way cool junior. i asked him if he knew anything about bolts getting chopped on it and he replied that who ever added the bolts did not get his approval so he took them out. hopefully this can clear up what happened to the missing bolts. Jun 17, 2006
Will Buckman
Devils Tower
Will Buckman   Devils Tower
As of 3/22/03, the second bolt on this route is missing. Beware potential ground-fall before clipping 3rd bolt. Mar 22, 2004
Just led Way Cool Jr. on 6/15/03. Somebody chopped the 2nd bolt or 3rd bolt. I'm not sure which one it was, I just know until I clipped the next bolt it would have been a long ride to ground. Jun 28, 2003
The first ascent of this route was done in 1985 by Mike Nona and Brad Edwards Aug 15, 2002
A person did hit the ground prior to reaching the second bolt and gotten seriously injured. This was a beginning leader. New bolts were added to protect these beginning leaders Aug 7, 2002