Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Fanghorn Hills

Enting T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hrum Hroom S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Precious T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Quickbeam S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Paul Muehl and Pete DeLannoy
Page Views: 2,821 total, 15/month
Shared By: Steve Mestdagh on Jul 8, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is located shortly after you crest the hill on the right. You'll see Goldberry Lane on Ered Lithui on the left at the top of the hill. Quickbeam is on the right, just before you crest the hill. There's a large boulder (rock fin) in the middle at the crest to confuse you a bit. Use your alpine route finding skills :-) I used John Pages green book ("Recommened Climbs...") for the approach.

Crux is getting to the first bolt and maybe a move past it. After 1st bolt, I climbed a bit right before angling left to 2nd bolt. Follow your nose to the 3rd. Then you'll wonder where the 4th is until you step up a bit. Don't worry about the run to the top because there's a crack a bit up from the last bolt and a great horn up and right of that.

Enjoy!

Protection

4 bolts, the 4th is difficult to see until you move past the 3rd. It's a ways from the 4th bolt to the top but there's a good webbing sling (not a cord sling, too thick) around a horn about 10 feet from the top. If I would have brought gear, I believe I could have gotten in a tcu or 1/2 tech friend in between 4th bolt and sling.
Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
 
Ryan Emery   Black Hills, SD
 
I found it difficult to locate the fourth bolt I believe. It appeared hidden behind a flake for me. I think I placed two good stoppers and there is a nice flake to sling before finishing! Awesome route I thought, great for 5.7 lead climbing in my opinion. Mar 15, 2016
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
 
Oh please don't bolt anything else on this little spire. Nothing wrong with toproping, and there is always moonlight ridge if you need clipups near Sylvan Lake. Nov 21, 2012
Jeff VS  
This is an absolutely lovely climb but the idea of the crux being a grounder makes this a tough climb for a 5.7 climber. Once climbed, set up as a top rope and climb the excellent 5.9-ish face 10 feet to the left. If someone has the time to bolt this, it would make a great lead. Nov 20, 2012
Ayescotty9
  5.7
Ayescotty9  
  5.7
The wide crack on the right is OFF route! Glad I had a cam on my belt to slot in that crack when I strayed over it for some beta-less on-sight fun though... =P
Fun moves. Go climb it. Sep 13, 2010
joelhagan Hagan
Rapid City, SD
 
joelhagan Hagan   Rapid City, SD
 
Should be "Hrum Hoom". Oct 20, 2009
The first ascent of this route was done by Paul Muehl and Pete DeLanoy in the mid-1980's Aug 15, 2002