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Hollywood & Vine

5.10c, Trad, 270 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3.8 from 56 votes
FA: Gary Cole, Raymond Jacquot '60
Wyoming > Devils Tower > S & E Faces
Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This climb has one of the more interesting pitches at the tower. The first pitch is essentially an approach pitch, but still fun (5.5). The second pitch is a long seam that is a full rope length. This originally was only possible as an aid climb, but as people kept putting larger pitons in old pin scars, the seam widened up enough to jam two fingers in each slot. Pins are no longer used, and this is currently a free climb. For the third pitch, climb a short 5.4 section to the meadows.

This route is pretty easy to find. Follow the South Face approach, passing the ladder near Bon Homme. Slightly past this point is a column separated from the tower with a bolted line up it (Roach Addition, 5.7). Start just right of this rock for the 5.5 pitch.

Protection

Nuts, Aliens, TCU's, tricams - anything for finger size on the second pitch. Standard Rack for first pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Unknown South Dakota climbers on Hollywood & Vine... March 4, 2007.  BEAUTY DAY!!
[Hide Photo] Unknown South Dakota climbers on Hollywood & Vine... March 4, 2007. BEAUTY DAY!!
Mary Erdei moving thru the crux of Hollywood and Vine in July 1985. Rated 10b back then.
[Hide Photo] Mary Erdei moving thru the crux of Hollywood and Vine in July 1985. Rated 10b back then.
finally, my fingers are done
[Hide Photo] finally, my fingers are done
The route...
[Hide Photo] The route...
Mike on pith 2.
[Hide Photo] Mike on pith 2.
Mike follows pitch 2.
[Hide Photo] Mike follows pitch 2.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This route is very low angle... Almost a face climb. A must do route. Beautiful stemming and finger crack with face holds. One of the best 5.10s in the USA. Get out and do it! Sep 4, 2004
[Hide Comment] Multiple #3, #4 & #5 Rocks are useful for this route.No need for anything over a .75 Camalot. Nov 6, 2004
John Gunnels
Gillette, WY
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Steve Gardiner's guide says "lieback off pin scars". As I remember, stemming is the way to go. BEAUTIFUL ROUTE!! Apr 9, 2006
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
[Hide Comment] Both pitches can be linked together with a 70 m rope. Feb 28, 2012
Jeff McLeod
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] This pitch is full-value and badass as hell, a quintessential Tower experience. In-your-face climbing on finger locks and thin face holds with just enough rests to give you time to take it all in. There is even a mono-lock in there! Wow!

It protects well with finger and fat-finger sized pieces. Like 0.2-0.75 camalots. I placed an RP or two in there as well, so take those and the usual rack of stoppers.

The approach pitch is certainly harder than 5.5, stemming and wide jams. I can't recommend linking this with the pitch above - your belayer would not be able to see you at all, and the stance atop p1 is spacious and comfy.

You can rap this route in two raps with a 70m rope if you use the anchors on Solar Eclipse (arete to climber's right) halfway down. Nov 1, 2015
Adam Block
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Using Roach Addiction's first two bolts then a fun 5.8 move into the stembox is a fun way to linkup a full 70M pitch. Be sure to extend your low pieces well and enjoy! C3s and medium nuts are your best friends on this! One 70M will get you down from top of P2. Aim RIGHT for Soler Eclipse's Chains. Mar 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] Very fun route. The rack I used (and felt pretty well sewed up):
X4 - .2(2),
C4 - .3(1), 2(1 for P1 anchor), .4(1), .5(1)
Totem - black(1), blue(1)
C3 - 00(2), 0(1), 1(1), 2(1)
Metolius - #1 purple small cam
BD #5 stopper
offset micro stopper May 29, 2018
[Hide Comment] After climbing Carrol's Crack the day before, I found this to be a Jr. version of that. Incredible route that's varied and challenging in a couple places. Gotta love jamming pin scars! Apr 29, 2019
G Wood
 
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! I Would have brought more medium nuts. I did find it similar to Carols crack, but honestly due to the ability to easily protect almost all of carols, i found this one a bit more challenging! May 29, 2019