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Routes in Sharkstooth

Boxcars and Airplanes S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: 1990 by Bob Archbold and Dave Green
Page Views: 1,815 total, 10/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jul 2, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


64 Opinions

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Description

This is a great little sport route to a neat summit. A very good climb to teach people on - its nice to be on a summit rather than lowering off chains on a cliff.

Climb up jugs and a steep crack. When that peters out, step right and climb the right arete of the spire to the top.

This used to have two bolts and possibilities for stopper placements down low(though it was casual to lead just with the two bolts). Several new bolts have appeared, with the lowest one being pointless - it can be clipped while standing on the ground.

Protection

quickdraws, maybe a few stoppers to protect the start

Photos

Nathan D Johnson
  5.7 PG13
Nathan D Johnson  
  5.7 PG13
If you're just clipping bolts, this is a little spicy between the first and second bolts. The first bolt seemed pointless to clip, except as psychological pro. The second bolt is probably 25 feet off the ground. If you don't place any gear, this climb is PG-13. Sep 5, 2017
Thanks for the heads up,Oliver. Replaced anchor on 6-18-17 Jun 22, 2017
Oliver S.
Custer,SD
  5.6
Oliver S.   Custer,SD
  5.6
When I climbed this the bolt on the cold shut at the anchor as able to completely spin and needs replaced and could pull but you can sling a horn and do a needles style rappel to get you down and save you some gear. Jun 18, 2017
BigSpat  
youtu.be/n6P_i3UDDWE

Fun short climb! Nov 16, 2016
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.7
A #0.4 BD cam fits perfectly in the crack to protect the climbing between the low first bolt and the high second bolt. Fun climb to a small pointy summit -- just wish it were taller. Jul 8, 2012
Kai Segrud  
 
This climb is fun but that first bolt is useless. I would not do this climb unless you have a piece between the first and second bolt. A #11 BD stopper fits well and is pretty easy to put in. If you don't put in anything and for whatever reason you fall before you get to that second bolt, plan on hitting the ground. Dec 25, 2005
Cool little route. Great for a warmup in the morning or cool down after a day of climbing. Dec 22, 2002
This route was first climbed from the ground up in 1990 by Bob Archbold and Dave Green Aug 15, 2002
New bolts were placed in the original location of the original bolts. The pointless first one was to protect a skitish person putting in the stopper placment so they would not fall over and fall out of balance and injure themselves. And by the way I did the first ascent on lead. Aug 7, 2002