Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Herb and Jan Conn
Page Views: 22,129 total · 100/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 26, 2002 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the most classic 5.7 routes that I have ever done. Hike to the field north of Outer Outlet. The route is actually hard to pick out because it blends into the wall. Look for a crack system that diagonals up the north face. This is the route.

Start by climbing up through face holds to get into the crack. Climb this for one long pitch until a horizontal crack traverse is seen. Set a belay. Then traverse 60 feet or so to the right on juggy holds. This is very airy, and the face drops below you. Finally for pitch 3, pick a variety of ways to the top. A large roof hangs above. There is a chimney on either side of the roof, the left being easier. Grunt through one of these. Otherwise, a beautiful "lightning bolt" crack heads to the right of the right chimney. This is supposed to be a 5.8 finger crack.

Descent: You have two options. Either step across to the East summit of outer outlet and find the anchors that sit on the south side of the formation, or once at the top of the final pitch anchors traverse out right to a set of anchors and make two double rope rappels down the route Stainless Steel Shield. 

This route was first done in 1953 without climbing shoes, a short rope, and both upclimbing and downclimbing it. Very impressive if you ask me.

Protection

Standard Rack. Large and Small, bring it all.

Photos