First of all I must say do not do this route because you will probably die. If you do this route after reading this, I am not responsible. This is a very serious ie. foolish and down right stupid route to attempt. I lived through it but you probably will not. So be warned, you could die. Gorillas in the schist is located on the left (downstream) side of BVF. There is an obvious weakness that sometimes has ice beneath it. there is one left diagonal crack 2 meters in length in the middle of the route. the route ascends this crack and follows the obvious weakness above it. At this point if you decide to bail you will prove that you have good risk assessment skills and will live to climb another route. If you climb the final 30 feet to the top of the cliffband you will have completed the 2nd ascent of Gorillas in the Schist. This climb was followed by Dawn Glanc and witness by Mike Mcneil. A RC hardman bailed when the pro ran out, smart man. The final 30 feet is a slab with very few features, it is rated x. If you take a ride you will deck out and bleed to death before your lifeless body is dragged to the road.
gorillas in the schist requires one rack of friends, one set of stoppers, and trad aid gear including: 1 knifeblade, lost arrows, baby angles. The protection is good for the first 50 feet, above that there is no pro for 30 feet to the top of the cliffband. Above cliffband climb 30 feet to tree belay.