Early season snow conditions entering the rocky ledges of Peak 8100 on it's Northern aspect. Can be one of the cruxes of the route getting back on the rock after Forbidden's glacier shenanigans

All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Cascade River D… > Boston Basin Pe… > Mt Torment > Torment-Forbidden Tra… (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow)

Early season snow conditions entering the rocky ledges of Peak 8100 on it's Northern aspect. Can be one of the cruxes of the route getting back on the rock after Forbidden's glacier shenanigans

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Mike Fu getting ready to rap to grassy ledges south bypass to avoid late season snow/ice traverse

Topo from V-Notch to U-Notch

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Jeffrey Mascaro

Jul 7, 2025

“Early season snow conditions entering the rocky ledges of Peak 8100 on it's Northern aspect. Can be one of the cruxes of the route getting back on the rock after Forbidden's glacier shenanigans”

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Nearby Photos

On top of Torment looking toward Forbidden

Torment and Forbidden from Hidden Lake Lookout, 3/18/2020

After rapping down from the notch at the base of Torment you arrive on the north side. Top right is the steep snow traverse in Aug.

Our second bivy, at the start of the steep snow traverse. Enough for two here, plus room for 3 more in other nearby spots. Still got pestered by a woodrat here who ran across us and chewed the gear loops of my harness.

Mike Fu on the 'sidewalk'

Mike Fu getting ready to rap to grassy ledges south bypass to avoid late season snow/ice traverse

Early season snow conditions entering the rocky ledges of Peak 8100 on it's Northern aspect. Can be one of the cruxes of the route getting back on the rock after Forbidden's glacier shenanigans

Topo from V-Notch to U-Notch

Standing on top of Torment - view of ridge line all the way to Forbidden in the distance.

Snowbridge antics since we crossed the rock rib too low/climbing in late season

The traverse seen from the top of Mt. Torment (Forbidden Peak being the prominent spire in the background)

Grassy Ledges on Torment's West facing aspect after exiting the access notch and left facing 5.4 dihedral pitch

A North Cascades gem for sure.

Looking back at the first snow traverse (we went too low!)

Our bivy above grassy ledges of Torment before rappelling to north side glacier. Not great, but good enough. Watch out for the resident snafflehounds that pestered us all night! (Bushy-tailed woodrats as I later learned)

Standing on the north side looking North east towards Forbidden, right before the steep snow traverse.

Starting to close in on Forbidden peak and the finish of the classic TFT.

Looking north at the moon peaking through the notch from our bivy on Torment above grassy ledges.

Looking back after crossing the bergshrund on the north side and getting back on the rock in mid-July 2023. We rappelled into and walked out of it near the left side (skier's right).

Snow traverse in mid-July 2023. The bridge below the saddle to get into the proper traverse looked real thin and sketchy - we opted to take the grassy ledges bypass route instead.

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