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William Prehm
Nov 20, 2001
Buttonhead, the old Hubbel guide lists the FA of RU Red I FA: Jay Wilson 1986. Is this incorrect?

Allen, Mike Storeim is claiming the FA of Seamus with Tom Alexander in 1977, sorry. Feb 13, 2011
Hey Jason,
We never knew of a Jay Wilson. My climbing partner that day was Jay Nelson. Jay had been involved in another nearby FA with Ed Russell (can't recall the name of the route but it was a stiff, steep hand crack in a large boulder and a good route) and the old guidebook author credited it to Jay Wilson, et al.... Bunk and we knew it. Jay and Ed had the FA. Jay and I had the FA of RU Red I. I lead it, Jay followed. We documented these routes (and others) in the notebook at the Bucksnort. When the guidebook came out, every route we reported in that notebook was credited to someone else! We were shocked! We never contributed again.

We thought of RU Red I as a throw-away (don't mean it was bad, just did it sort of did it off the cuf) route we’d knocked off in a couple hours, nothing important for sure. I am sure it is not 5.9+, but it might feel like it with 80 feet of slack! I ran it out because of laziness – I didn’t want to bother with drilling, just kept going. I ran out of rope and asked jay to climb up giving me slack so that I might reach a belay. He did and I did. It was cool, we thought, to do a slab with no bolts, especially because we were once lectured and scolded by a self-proclaimed “local” who declared that most of the bolted routes in the Platte had been climbed without the bolts! We knew that wasn’t true but dang, we’d done one! Feb 28, 2011
I believe the FA attribution to Jay Wilson is correct. Jay lived in Salt Lake City and Jackson Hole Wyoming, and climbed many areas/routes throughout the region. Oct 26, 2016

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