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From the top of Chimney.
ID 1304741 ·

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Scott Duke
Jun 15, 2004
From the top of Chimney.  
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
This picture shows one of the best granite crags in Colorado, The Turret. Peter Gallagher and Peter Williams did the face shown and kindly turned me on to it, mid '80s.

There is a left-arching, orange, crack that ends just below the pinnacle summit. That is the short third pitch, 5.10- offwidth bulge.

The thin cracks, 5.10+/5.11-, in the green wall below are the goods. Start in the left crack, switch right and put in a hanging belay. A seventy meter rope MIGHT make it possible to skip the hanging belay. The main thing is you're climbing finger cracks on a steep face studded with great holds. Like Messner's at Turkey Rock, but harder with great pro. A single rope rap got us way past the notch to down-climbable chimney terrain back to the packs.

Watch out for lightning! Summit hits happen here even when the storms seem small and far away. Oct 10, 2007
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
The first 2 pitches can be linked with a 70M rope. Also watch out for nesting falcons at the nice scoop below the 3rd pitch OW. I watched Pat Peddy link the entire Throne room in a single pitch when he arrived at the belay to find an occupied nest. Fortunately his partner was just below the traverse to the right crack when he was put on belay. Oct 10, 2007
Hey Kevin, You just set the gears in motion to close this crag for raptor nesting. I think that eventually all crags will be closed until the peregrine populations outnumber that of humans.
I avoid disturbing nesting raptors as I believe most climbers do.
However, a "don't ask, don't tell" approach may be best?
Oh oh. Did I just open a can of worms?
I am not a troll. Oct 11, 2007

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