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All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades > Washington Pass > Cutthroat Peak > S Buttress (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)
The notch in pitch 9 can be seen in the bottom of the photo. Stand on the rock pile and boulder up the overhang feature.
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Pitch 8, alternative to the stem box gully
Rapping down to second station (2nd rap station about 5 ft straight down) . Partner is standing at first rappel station on summit on West Ridge descent.
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Maggie Zhou
Sep 29, 2024
“The notch in pitch 9 can be seen in the bottom of the photo. Stand on the rock pile and boulder up the overhang feature.”  

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The gully to the base of the climb had ~2 short 5th class steps.
Erik Leidecker and I following Erica Engle's lead. This is the "1st Crux" in Ian's guidebook. There are multiple variations possible. The one in this photo is probably 5.8+ - 5.9. You go up a little dihedral and bust right on a horizontal hand crack to a ledge. The normal 5.8 variations are a little right of this. The pitch is well less than 100ft.
Just before the Tarzan Step (you don't actually have to jump, and it's really well protected with a 0.3 or 0.4 and another 0.4-0.75). <br> <br> There's two options to get to the step... option 1 is the gully (see Kyle's comment), option 2 is stay on the ridge.
Pitch 8, alternative to the stem box gully
The notch in pitch 9 can be seen in the bottom of the photo. Stand on the rock pile and boulder up the overhang feature.
Rapping down to second station (2nd rap station about 5 ft straight down) . Partner is standing at first rappel station on summit on West Ridge descent.
nearing the summit after south buttress cutthroat 1991
The South Buttress of Cutthroat Peak, From the Bivy area.
Cutthroat from the approach
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