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All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Black Rose > Black Magic Woman (5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)
Pinch to unlock the cruxy crux… pic way back in the day
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The bolt placement on Black Magic Woman.
Different beta: Right hand white, left hand top black (or match white), get left foot high to low black, bump left to blue arete and get thumb catch, heel hook green, make it static to yellow with right hand.
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  5.0 from 3 votes
Ryan Pritchett
Sep 4, 2024
“Pinch to unlock the cruxy crux… pic way back in the day”  

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Pinch to unlock the cruxy crux… pic way back in the day
Different beta: Right hand white, left hand top black (or match white), get left foot high to low black, bump left to blue arete and get thumb catch, heel hook green, make it static to yellow with right hand.
Brett Anderson belayed by Christian Burrell on Black Magic Woman.
Black Magic Woman
The crux done a bit differently / easier than the given description. There is no right way IMO
awesome climb! one of the best up rock canyon [[106144464]]
Crux Pinch
Balance Moves after the crux.
This is my choice beta - see review below for walkthrough
We spotted this guy showing how to do the crux in style. Way to go dude! You can clearly see the so-so pinch of the left arete and the rad hold for the right that gets you through.
The bolt placement on Black Magic Woman.
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