Flying Buttress from the Iron Gates, specifically from the Iron Finger.

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Flying Buttress from the Iron Gates, specifically from the Iron Finger.

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Start of pitch 4.

A comparison of Flying Buttress pre- and post- the May 2022 rockfall.

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John Maurer

Aug 18, 2024

“Flying Buttress from the Iron Gates, specifically from the Iron Finger.”

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A comparison of Flying Buttress pre- and post- the May 2022 rockfall.

Max and Burt on the approach to the Flying Buttress

A photo of P3 after the left variation fell off. The right side variation goes at 9/10a-ish.

A route overlay of Meeker's Flying Buttress.

Buttress glowing. We found a descent path down right-side of this photo vaguely marked with cairns

The route follows the left side of the ridge. Almost exactly where the sun/shadow line is!

A shot of unknown climbers topped out on Flying Buttress, Thursday, June 21st, 2012, taken from the east side of the knife-edge ridge above. A cool photo opportunity!

Allison Variation, 5.9<br>
FDA: Dean Allison and Guy Humphrey<br>
Gear: gear to 1 inch<br>
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This climb is not documented anywhere, and we saw no signs of climbers on the line. This is a good line if you prefer finger cracks to chimneys and you are not up for the 5.10 cracks on the main face. The pitch can also be used to make a four pitch route that has 5.9 climbing on each pitch. The climbing is as good or better than the upper 5.9 pitches.<br>
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The climb starts to the left of the 5.8 P1 variation in a sharp layback finger crack. About halfway up the left-facing dihedral, the crack starts to disappear and the gear looks like it goes with it. There is good gear to be found, but you will need to look for it. The top of the dihedral is capped by a small roof. It forces you out on face to the right with a hidden line of holds that keeps it at 5.9. This exciting tarverse ends at a belay below the 2nd 5.9 pitch variation. Fun stuff!<br>

10a dihedral of pitch 5 (direct variation).

The nice 1-inch crack on pitch 3 with the 5.9+ roof above.

I'm pretty certain that this block is no longer there.

Flying Buttress, August 16, 2020.

New route beta:
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Green: Class 4 to the base.
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P1 red 5.10c/d thin seam, slab feet, ledge below.
<br>
P2 purple: 5.9 fun.
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P3-4 bright red/; 5.10b sketch loose traverse.
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P5 blue: 5.8 fun easy finish.
<br>
Green: Class 4 down.

P3. The red line is the line I took. The yellow is fixed gear: a bad bolt (same as belay bolt): a pin behind a small, detached flake (would likely lever flake off with body weight), & another pin (very loose), the blue is very good 0.75. 5.9R.

Tasty belay ledge atop pitch 2.

A route overlay for Upper Flying Buttress.

As viewed from Mt. Lady Washington.

Mike Elges leading the .10c variation. A must do if you climb the grade!

Descent via The Loft (if you go to the summit of Meeker).

Flying Buttress early morning from Stettner's Ledges approach.

Douglas heading up the crux pitch. Carry a #3 cam, and pull the juggy, but airy roof. So much fun!

Looking up at the route. You can simul-climb the first 200 feet or so up the slabs, around the corner, until you feel the need....

Climbers mid-route on The Flying Buttress on Mt Meeker.

Matt rounds the corner on pitch 3. Picture taken from just past the big roof.

Tony Bubb approaching the 5.9 roof on P3 of the Flying Buttress of Mt Meeker. Photo by Joseffa Meir

Matt seconds the first pitch.

Matt at the second belay.

Chillin out on the flyin buttress.

a view from the 2nd pitch. "eric the rep" on belay.

View of the Flying Buttress and the start of Dream Weaver.

Bring sunscreen. Max and I improvising belays high on Flying Buttress

Flying Buttress belay ledge.

Tony Bubb on the saddle traverse above P6 of the Flying Buttress of Mt Meeker. Photo by Joseffa Meir

I'm sure I'm off route, but I couldn't resist! This crack is so PINK!

Jon high on Flying Buttress. Not sure exactly where, we found route finding to be pretty difficult.

Flying Buttress is the prominent fin in the center of the photo.

04 July 2009.

Flying Buttress from the distance

Tough to find a suitable rock to keep the marmots out.

Almost there!

Looking down at the lower Flying Buttress from the upper pitches. The descent from the lower Flying Buttress is a scramble down the rock slopes on the left in this photo.

A route overlay of Meeker's Flying Buttress pre- and post-rockfall.

At the start of the buttress.

Approaching the Flying Buttress from the base side in early alpine season. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.

Looking down, end of maybe the second pitch.

Douglas finishing up the pitch.

Brent Butler on an undocumented 5.10b variation to Flying Buttress.

Douglas following....coming off the top of Flying Buttress. Wild to hear people on the actual summit of Meeker.

Upper Buttress, the way we went. I don't think this fits the guidebook description, but it worked well and was good climbing, ~10a.

Upper Buttress, the way we went. I don't think this fits the guidebook description, but it worked well and was good climbing, ~10a.

The Flying Buttress in afternoon light on the way back down from Meeker. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.

The final 3rd/4th scramble to the summit of Meeker on the Upper Flying Buttress.

V-slot chimney on pitch 1 (left variation).

5.9 corner on pitch 2 (left variation).

5.8 handcrack on pitch 2 (direct variation).

Flying Buttress of Mt. Meeker (upper left) in morning light. Ship's Prow is on the right.

Douglas hiking up to Flying Buttress! Around the 4th of July 2008.

Greg Williams leading p2 of Flying Buttress.

Start of pitch 4.

Flying Buttress from the Iron Gates, specifically from the Iron Finger.

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