Evan following me up The Gendarme with some new friends hanging out below. Completely underestimated this Queen of a route

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Mt Stuart > Direct N Ridge (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

Evan following me up The Gendarme with some new friends hanging out below. Completely underestimated this Queen of a route

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Notch Bivy site. Space for about 4-5 people

Mike Fu sending the Gendarme in August 2019

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5.0 from 2 votes

Adam Mac

Aug 4, 2024

“Evan following me up The Gendarme with some new friends hanging out below. Completely underestimated this Queen of a route”

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Nearby Photos

Looking down the North Ridge of Stuart, halfway up the ridge or so.

A view of Ranier on the horizon during sunrise on the approach. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Route Overlay Stuart North Ridge

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

Feeling small on the approach. The North Ridge of Mt. Stuart follows the background skyline.

Approach and Descent map for North Ridge of Stuart.

A pitch above the upper crux.

Leading up the splitter P3 thin hands!

Belay ledge midway up the Gendarme

Jeromy on an exposed traverse of the upper ridge.

Route Overlay for The Gendarme.<br>

onward and upward

The complete north ridge of Stuart, from the summit of Argonaut. Picture taken afternoon of 2023-06-17.

This shows the approach and start.

Jeromy Markee jamming the splitter crack after the gendarme.

5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

Notch Bivy site. Space for about 4-5 people

Evan following me up The Gendarme with some new friends hanging out below. Completely underestimated this Queen of a route

Mike Fu sending the Gendarme in August 2019

Dan following the 9+ hands pitch

View from our bivy in 2019

Dave staring up at the menacing gendarme. Credit: http://chossboys.weebly.com/home/27-hours-an-epic-on-mount-stuart

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

Fixed cam in the offwidth on the second pitch of the Gendarme.

Nearing the base of the imposing gendarme

On the approach with most of the North Ridge visible

Just below the gendarme on the knife edge.

Just past a short downclimb on the North Ridge

Headed to the summit

Euro Mik demonstrates proper European style during a very fun ascent of the direct north ridge

Looking down from above the gendarme, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.

Jeromy Markee, upper ridge

View of the 5.9+ pitch

This route is epic

North side of Mt. Stuart

Route Overlay Pitches 1-3

Traverse pitch leading to Gendarme pitches.

summit 2000

Route to the Cascadian Couloir from the summit. This photo is looking SE

Chris at the base of Great Gendarm

2019.07.28-09:24

soon after this photo, shit hit the fan! below gendarme 2000

Moving up the splitter Gendarme

great positions on north ridge

Pitch 1 of the lower North Ridge.

Pitch 2 of the lower North Ridge.

Don heading up the coulior to gain the middle notch.

This bivy is at about 9225' just below summit (north side). Last bivy until the descent-side bivies also at about 9200'. This looks like two could squeeze uncomfortably for a night.

This bivy is just beyond Great Gendarme pitches. It's at ~9100' and looks like two people could probably squeeze and lay down.

Bivy about 100 feet above 8200' notch - looks big enough for 2.

Mt Start from south side 6/23. North ridge visible on right

stuart

5.9 pitch

Challis Cates following the 3rd pitch hand crack, nearing the belay ledge.

Slab crack section. Upper ridge.

lower pitches

Taken on the descent from the summit to the col above Sherpa Glacier.

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