P7 left variation with the two pins

All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountain… > Juan Tabo Canyon > Needle > Southwest Ridge (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13)

P7 left variation with the two pins

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A look up the third pitch. Stay in the crack on the left. Notice the cave. With a 60 m rope, you can make all the way into the first notch. (lots of rope drag though)

Mark at the belay ledge at the top of pitch 1

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Gabriel Debeaupuis

Jul 2, 2023

“P7 left variation with the two pins”

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Nearby Photos

Bill Isenhower on SW Ridge

Tom Breeze Rescue

SW Ridge overview topo

Stemming across the void to start P7.

Here is a topo of the route as Davito Hammack and I climbed it in May '18.

Mark starting up the steep wall on pitch 3

The low fifth class scrambling to finish the climbing on the ridge.

Needle. SW Ridge is the one on the left

SW Ridge of the Needle from the top of the Mummy.

Pitch 10: Go right at the tree to stay on route at 5.7. Going left feels more natural at the fork, and begins with ease, but the variation leads to more difficult climbing as noted above by Bill Lawry.

View looking down into Pinnacle Valley from one of the upper pitches

The first (lower) of 2 ancient pitons on the leftward variation of P7.

Shows the route and our approximate 4th and 5th belays. From our 5th belay, it was a very short 5th class section up to the left and into the second notch.

Pitches 4-5 as described on MP

Me on 2nd pitch

Tom Breeze being rescued after he broke his pelvis on the SW Ridge. Sorry the slide is a little scratched

I prefer and recommend this face variation over the more obvious right facing corner option on P6. From the top of the bushy P5 gully, angle out right towards a piton, clip it and start up some fun, exposed yet secure face climbing with plentiful pro.

The step across to start P7 is exposed but well protected for the leader with a 2 inch cam placement (left) at the west end of the void. From a stance below the gear, stem across, reach for the ledge with the grass, match hands here and commit.

One start is to the right of this arete, up the bushy ledge to a belay location near the end of the ledge.

Jordan Ramey starting up the 4th pitch, off the first notch.

A look up the third pitch. Stay in the crack on the left. Notice the cave. With a 60 m rope, you can make all the way into the first notch. (lots of rope drag though)

P7 left variation with the two pins

Mark at the belay ledge at the top of pitch 1

The large grassy ledge at the end of P10. Ben is at the start of P11.

P9 short crack to a ledge

The Sievert variation to P12 - Jason led this exciting step across to the left, finishing at the tree above - also about 5.8+ like the established fixed pin/roof finish visible to the right. Lots of room for variation as the ridge widens above 5th Ave.

The ridge above 5th Avenue

Steven VanSickle n Rick McWilliams.<br>
MAy2,2014

Leading pitch 9 (photo by Mark S)

Chris clipping the fixed pin on P11.

Graham passing the cave, just above the ring piton on P3.

Mark leading the face on pitch 7

Mark about to step across on pitch 7

Pitch #3 stay left...

Mark starting up pitch 1

Pitch 12 roof from the obvious stance on the arete posted in the route beta. Chase catching some shade under the overhang before making the crux move.

Mark finishes P3 under an early shadow of the SW Ridge beyond.

The needle

Looking down at the step across on pitch 7 (photo by Mark S)

Mark nears the top of the rightward variation of P7 - very fun pitch!

Scrambling near the top (Photo Mark S)

Looking down at Davito's belay ( which is one pitch above 5th Ave ledges), from midway up our pitch 8. The tree below is where you don't want to go left up a weakness; instead head climbers right up large deatached blocks to where this photo was taken.

Moving up pitch 4 (Photo Mark S)

Graham leading Chris simul-climbing up P1 via the bushy ledges east of the toe.

Graham approaching the spacious P1 belay ledge.

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