Our bivy at the foot of Spearhead's N Ridge on July 31, 1976 -- the night of the Big Thompson Flood. We finally climbed the route in 1978.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Glacier Gorge > Spearhead > N Ridge (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Our bivy at the foot of Spearhead's N Ridge on July 31, 1976 -- the night of the Big Thompson Flood. We finally climbed the route in 1978.

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Leaving the Barb flake belay, 2nd to last pitch.

On the summit, with storms moving in, from false summit above Sykes Sickle, Pagoda in background.

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Bruce Pech

Sep 5, 2022

“Our bivy at the foot of Spearhead's N Ridge on July 31, 1976 -- the night of the Big Thompson Flood. We finally climbed the route in 1978.”

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Nearby Photos

Nearing the summit of Spearhead via the North Ridge.

On the summit, with storms moving in, from false summit above Sykes Sickle, Pagoda in background.

Looking down the ridge from the top of the last technical pitch.

North Ridge approximate route (slightly offset to see features).

A route overlay of North Ridge.

The North Ridge of Spearhead with variations.

Photo of route variation for North Ridge/North Face.

Final pitch up the North Ridge.

Spearhead from a lake along the way.

Bottom left is belaying at the start of the 4th pitch. Small red dot in top left is belaying at the start of the 6th pitch.

Descent beta.

Easy slab moves in the middle of the North Ridge.

Nice bivy at base of Spearhead North Ridge route.

Nathan mid-route.

"An awesome route."
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Photo by Mike Schneiter.

The 'fun'.

The summit scramble....

Jay heading up pitch 2.

On the way out.

'E' on the cool, airy summit.

Barb Flake belay.

A climber climbs the North Ridge, Spearhead, July 12, 2020.

Good start with the sun out on the North Ridge of the Spearhead.

Lisa G. and Lisa. S climbing the last pitch to the summit ridge Sunday Sept. 4th, 2011.

Backside of Long's.

Looking toward Long's and Pagoda (left to right).

Duane preparing to lead the desperate crux slot, high on the North Ridge of Spearhead.

Slabbing on the Spearhead.

David Stillman

Charles Goldman leading up the 3rd pitch.

Jon on face below crux pitch.

Gary and John high up on the face trying to get back on route.

The middle portion of the route with the tip of the Barb flake seen on the left.

Duane leading a pitch about halfway up the North Ridge of Spearhead

Looking down the North Ridge of Spearhead from below the crux pitch.

A route overlay of Spearhead's North Ridge.

Pitch 1 on North Ridge.

Tim scoping out route.

Jon at bivy - start of route in background.

Christian Narby midway up the route.

Christian Narby midway up the route with Zoe Burns looking on from the last belay.

Somewhere around pitch 4. We stayed right of the "actual" route.

Pitch 6 on North Ridge.

Enjoying some of that alpine exposure near the summit.

Looking toward McHenry's.

Charles Goldman working his way to the top of the second pitch.

More great rock.

Pitch 3 on North Ridge.

Pitch 5 on North Ridge.

Tippy top of zee ridge.

Pitch 8 on North Ridge.

In the groove.

Zoe Burns low on the route.

Glacier Gorge from the North Ridge.

Zoe Burns and Christian Narby at one of the many all-gear belays.

Topping out.

Paul mid-route.

Leaving the Barb flake belay, 2nd to last pitch.

In This Photo

wendy weiss

boulder, co

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