Brennen on the summit

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Bugaboos > Bugaboo Spire > Kain Route (S Ridge) (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Brennen on the summit

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From the base of the final belayed pitch

Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climber is in the lower right of the photo. The summit of Bugaboo is in the upper left of the photo.

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Kaitlyn Zeichick

Jul 25, 2022

“Brennen on the summit”

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Nearby Photos

Route Overlay Descent from Bugaboo Spire.

Picture of the Kain Route taken from Pigeon Spire.

Conrad Kain, alpine superhero.

From the base of the final belayed pitch

Brennen on the summit

Approaching the gendarme on the Kain route. Climber is in the lower right of the photo. The summit of Bugaboo is in the upper left of the photo.

More vistas from the scrambling part of the route (taken on descent) Tony Tennessee and Fred Batliner.

Kain Route, Bugaboo Spire<br>
Photo by MP conributor Kevin Craig<br>
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White dots - Kain Route (south ridge)<br>
Red dots - Rappel at Great Gendarme<br>
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In the distance, Vowell Glacier and Mount Conrad (Kain).

View from the South Summit

Climbers on the upper Kain Route.

Crux pitch on the Kain route,

The hordes waiting to rappel (left) and climb (right) The Gendarme - looking down from near summit.

Applebee Camp Info

Looking over at Snowpatch Spire from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.

Snowpatch-Bugaboo Col. Small crevasses and bergshrunds. Generally climbed unroped.

Vista on the lower part of the route.

Start of the roped climbing

Paul Hudak at the crux

A look at the easy climbing to the south summit.

The 4th class intermediate ridge.

Wearing the latest in safety headgear, M-J Cross cleans the last piece of pro on the Gendarme pitch (1982)

The added hike from the Kain hut to Applebee

The scrambling up to the roped pitches.

Applebee Camp

descending the snow patch bugaboo col, there are bolted anchors (4) that get you down the steep section. I used a 60 m rope without an issue. I have circled two anchors

descending the snow patch bugaboo col, there are bolted anchors (4) that get you down the steep section. I used a 60 m rope without an issue. here is one station:

Early season climb up Bugaboo!

Route Overview

Upper Route Beta

Upper section of Kain route showing the Gendarme (led in hob-nailed boots in 1916!) and the approximate route to summit

On the descent, traversing the pitch below the gendarme.

Easy scrambling low on the Kain Route. July 1974. Bob Dodds & Wendy Weiss.

David deciding the Knife Edge on the Kain Route.

Looking down from just below the Gendarme pitch.

Kain Route Map<br>
contour interval : 100 feet<br>
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Green - Kain Route<br>
Blue - Northeast Ridge

Some of the lower roped pitches

A key, inobvious rap station on the descent.

Bolted belay at the base of the Gendarme pitch.