I prefer and recommend this face variation over the more obvious right facing corner option on P6. From the top of the bushy P5 gully, angle out right towards a piton, clip it and start up some fun, exposed yet secure face climbing with plentiful pro.

All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Juan Tabo Canyon > Needle > Southwest Ridge (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13)

I prefer and recommend this face variation over the more obvious right facing corner option on P6. From the top of the bushy P5 gully, angle out right towards a piton, clip it and start up some fun, exposed yet secure face climbing with plentiful pro.

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The step across to start P7 is exposed but well protected for the leader with a 2 inch cam placement (left) at the west end of the void. From a stance below the gear, stem across, reach for the ledge with the grass, match hands here and commit.

One start is to the right of this arete, up the bushy ledge to a belay location near the end of the ledge.

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4.0 from 1 vote

Ryan Price

Jul 23, 2022

“I prefer and recommend this face variation over the more obvious right facing corner option on P6. From the top of the bushy P5 gully, angle out right towards a piton, clip it and start up some fun, exposed yet secure face climbing with plentiful pro.”

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Nearby Photos

Tom Breeze Rescue

Bill Isenhower on SW Ridge

Here is a topo of the route as Davito Hammack and I climbed it in May '18.

The low fifth class scrambling to finish the climbing on the ridge.

Needle. SW Ridge is the one on the left

SW Ridge of the Needle from the top of the Mummy.

Stemming across the void to start P7.

Pitch 10: Go right at the tree to stay on route at 5.7. Going left feels more natural at the fork, and begins with ease, but the variation leads to more difficult climbing as noted above by Bill Lawry.

The first (lower) of 2 ancient pitons on the leftward variation of P7.

Shows the route and our approximate 4th and 5th belays. From our 5th belay, it was a very short 5th class section up to the left and into the second notch.

Pitches 4-5 as described on MP

Me on 2nd pitch

Tom Breeze being rescued after he broke his pelvis on the SW Ridge. Sorry the slide is a little scratched

The step across to start P7 is exposed but well protected for the leader with a 2 inch cam placement (left) at the west end of the void. From a stance below the gear, stem across, reach for the ledge with the grass, match hands here and commit.

I prefer and recommend this face variation over the more obvious right facing corner option on P6. From the top of the bushy P5 gully, angle out right towards a piton, clip it and start up some fun, exposed yet secure face climbing with plentiful pro.

One start is to the right of this arete, up the bushy ledge to a belay location near the end of the ledge.

A look up the third pitch. Stay in the crack on the left. Notice the cave. With a 60 m rope, you can make all the way into the first notch. (lots of rope drag though)

Jordan Ramey starting up the 4th pitch, off the first notch.

P7 left variation with the two pins

Mark nears the top of the rightward variation of P7 - very fun pitch!

Mark finishes P3 under an early shadow of the SW Ridge beyond.

Chris clipping the fixed pin on P11.

Graham passing the cave, just above the ring piton on P3.

Graham approaching the spacious P1 belay ledge.

Pitch #3 stay left...

Steven VanSickle n Rick McWilliams.<br>
MAy2,2014

The large grassy ledge at the end of P10. Ben is at the start of P11.

Looking down at Davito's belay ( which is one pitch above 5th Ave ledges), from midway up our pitch 8. The tree below is where you don't want to go left up a weakness; instead head climbers right up large deatached blocks to where this photo was taken.

Pitch 12 roof from the obvious stance on the arete posted in the route beta. Chase catching some shade under the overhang before making the crux move.

The Sievert variation to P12 - Jason led this exciting step across to the left, finishing at the tree above - also about 5.8+ like the established fixed pin/roof finish visible to the right. Lots of room for variation as the ridge widens above 5th Ave.

Graham leading Chris simul-climbing up P1 via the bushy ledges east of the toe.

P9 short crack to a ledge

The needle

The ridge above 5th Avenue

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