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All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Juan Tabo Canyon > Needle > Southwest Ridge (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13)
The step across to start P7 is exposed but well protected for the leader with a 2 inch cam placement (left) at the west end of the void. From a stance below the gear, stem across, reach for the ledge with the grass, match hands here and commit.
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Pitch 12 roof from the obvious stance on the arete posted in the route beta. Chase catching some shade under the overhang before making the crux move.
I prefer and recommend this face variation over the more obvious right facing corner option on P6. From the top of the bushy P5 gully, angle out right towards a piton, clip it and start up some fun, exposed yet secure face climbing with plentiful pro.
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Ryan Price
Jul 23, 2022
“The step across to start P7 is exposed but well protected for the leader with a 2 inch cam placement (left) at the west end of the void. From a stance below the gear, stem across, reach for the ledge with the grass, match hands here and commit.”  

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Nearby Photos

Tom Breeze Rescue
Bill Isenhower on SW Ridge
The low fifth class scrambling to finish the climbing on the ridge.
Needle. SW Ridge is the one on the left
Here is a topo of the route as Davito Hammack and I climbed it in May '18.
SW Ridge of the Needle from the top of the Mummy.
Stemming across the void to start P7.
Pitch 10: Go right at the tree to stay on route at 5.7. Going left feels more natural at the fork, and begins with ease, but the variation leads to more difficult climbing as noted above by Bill Lawry.
The first (lower) of 2 ancient pitons on the leftward variation of P7.
Shows the route and our approximate 4th and 5th belays. From our 5th belay, it was a very short 5th class section up to the left and into the second notch.
Pitches 4-5 as described on MP
Me on 2nd pitch