Looking down the North Ridge from near the summit, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.

All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Mt Stuart > Direct N Ridge (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)

Looking down the North Ridge from near the summit, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.

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5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

Evan following me up The Gendarme with some new friends hanging out below. Completely underestimated this Queen of a route

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4.8 from 4 votes

Jefferson Ashby

Jul 20, 2022

“Looking down the North Ridge from near the summit, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.”

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Nearby Photos

Looking down the North Ridge of Stuart, halfway up the ridge or so.

A view of Ranier on the horizon during sunrise on the approach. Credit: www.chossboys.weebly.com

Route Overlay Stuart North Ridge

Climber leading Pitch 1 of the Gendarme, with the North Ridge stretching below.

Approach and Descent map for North Ridge of Stuart.

Feeling small on the approach. The North Ridge of Mt. Stuart follows the background skyline.

A pitch above the upper crux.

Leading up the splitter P3 thin hands!

Belay ledge midway up the Gendarme

Route Overlay for The Gendarme.<br>

Jeromy on an exposed traverse of the upper ridge.

onward and upward

Mike Fu sending the Gendarme in August 2019

The complete north ridge of Stuart, from the summit of Argonaut. Picture taken afternoon of 2023-06-17.

View from our bivy in 2019

Jeromy Markee jamming the splitter crack after the gendarme.

Notch Bivy site. Space for about 4-5 people

This shows the approach and start.

5.9 hand crack on Pitch 3 of the lower North Ridge. (and what not to do with the ropes...)

Looking down the North Ridge from near the summit, a party is visible at the top of pitch 2 of the gendarme.

Evan following me up The Gendarme with some new friends hanging out below. Completely underestimated this Queen of a route

Euro Mik demonstrates proper European style during a very fun ascent of the direct north ridge

Dan following the 9+ hands pitch

Route to the Cascadian Couloir from the summit. This photo is looking SE

Nearing the base of the imposing gendarme

Just below the gendarme on the knife edge.

Dave staring up at the menacing gendarme. Credit: http://chossboys.weebly.com/home/27-hours-an-epic-on-mount-stuart

Headed to the summit

Bolted rap station at the base of the Gendarme. It is possible to rappel here and climb around right of the Gendarme. Apparently the climbing is a bit easier down there. But the Gendarme offers such great climbing it would be a shame to bypass it.

Slab crack section. Upper ridge.

Aldan following the first pitch on the Great Gendarme

Jeromy Markee, upper ridge

This route is epic

Route Overlay Pitches 1-3

North side of Mt. Stuart

View of the 5.9+ pitch

On the approach with most of the North Ridge visible

Chris at the base of Great Gendarm

Fixed cam in the offwidth on the second pitch of the Gendarme.

Just past a short downclimb on the North Ridge

Traverse pitch leading to Gendarme pitches.

Pitch 1 of the lower North Ridge.

2019.07.28-09:24

Mt Start from south side 6/23. North ridge visible on right

Challis Cates following the 3rd pitch hand crack, nearing the belay ledge.

Don heading up the coulior to gain the middle notch.

great positions on north ridge

stuart

This bivy is at about 9225' just below summit (north side). Last bivy until the descent-side bivies also at about 9200'. This looks like two could squeeze uncomfortably for a night.

This bivy is just beyond Great Gendarme pitches. It's at ~9100' and looks like two people could probably squeeze and lay down.

Bivy about 100 feet above 8200' notch - looks big enough for 2.

soon after this photo, shit hit the fan! below gendarme 2000

summit 2000

Moving up the splitter Gendarme

Pitch 2 of the lower North Ridge.

lower pitches

Taken on the descent from the summit to the col above Sherpa Glacier.

5.9 pitch

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