Approach beta to true summit. Bring your approach shoes!

All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Boynton Canyon > Nirvana Buttress > Nirvana (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Approach beta to true summit. Bring your approach shoes!

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Ben channeling his inner caterpillar

Looking across at Nirvana from the base of Mystery Spire.

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Dan Freeman

Nov 30, 2021

“Approach beta to true summit. Bring your approach shoes!”

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Nirvana topo

Ben channeling his inner caterpillar

Approach beta to true summit. Bring your approach shoes!

Looking across at Nirvana from the base of Mystery Spire.

07-03-20, with FA permission, Idaliza Sosa and I installed a two-bolt chain anchor at the top of the third pitch. We removed all webbing from the piñon tree previously used as an anchor. With a single 70m rope, you can rap directly to the P1 anchor.

Nearing the top of the second pitch. (Photo: Joey Taylor)

Rare glimpse of the Nirvana vortex tunnel from Krakatoa. The tips crack above it is too steep and chossy for me and anyone wants it can go for it.

Leading the first pitch on an early ascent. Photo: Giselle Fernandez

Really cool funnel feature I noticed on the rap down.

Leading P1

Scenic rappel

Thumbs up for the awesome first pitch!

Miranda leading the first pitch with husband Patrick on belay.

Alexis surfing the endless positive holds on P2.

Location of Nirvana as seen from the turnoff from the main Boynton Canyon trail.

Top of the climb is an awesome place to hang out. We spent at least 30 minutes enjoying the view and watching clouds.

Late afternoon at the third belay, on the first complete ascent. Contemplating where to go on Pitch 3. (Photo: Miranda Perrone)

Very fun laybacking on the first pitch. (Photo: Giselle Field)

Climbers on the 1st pitch.

Angry Rattlesnake (See rattlesnake topo + 4/19/18 comment). BE CAREFUL!!

Bean leading the first pitch.
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(Photo: Giselle Field)

Parking lot view of one person on belay ledge below third pitch and two people on the 'dance floor': scan Nirvana skyline.

Me cleaning P1. I thought this pitch was the best part of the climb.

Looking out along the limestone ledge at Emma returning from the vortex tunnel.

great views from the top.

Dave Spies reaching up to the bulge on P3 before the first bolt was added.

Looking down at Mark from middle of P2.

Rattlesnake Topo (see comment 4/19/18)

Starting P3

Coming back down the easy 3rd class approach gully

Screencap of approaches up the slabs from the main trail

View of target gully from main trail

Location of Nirvana as seen from Boynton Canyon trailhead.

Near the top of P2. Just clip and go. Next time I do this route, I'll leave the rack at the top of P1. The rest of the climb is just clipping bolts. Didn't feel like any supplemental trad gear was needed.

Rap anchors from the bottom of P1 (near vortex tunnel exit) as of 11/22/2021.

Nate and Alexis emerging from the tunnel.

On lead looking down at the top of p1

Nate and Alexis walking the limestone ledge. Photo taken from tunnel entrance.

Bean styling the second pitch.
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(Photo: Giselle Fernandez)

Views are hard to beat.

Cruising through "rattlesnake alley". Fortunately Mark went first and scared them all away.

I think I saw at least 7 cliff dwellings in and around us on approach. This one was the easiest to get to but also a bit worn down.

Mark cruising up P1. The crux for me was actually getting off the ground and into "lie-back mode".

Giselle laybacking the first pitch. Oops, sloppy belay.

Mark coming up to the belay on P2.

Patrick emerging from the tunnel.

The third class ramp up to the vortex hole entrance. we accidentally went up one buttress too soon. Don't do that!

Top of the route.

Mandatory bromance shot.

Nate (blue helmet) starting P2 with Alexis (orange shirt) standing in the scoops belay atop P1.

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