Team Daddy-Daughter on the Summit of the First Flatiron on 11/13/2021. L-to-R: Clove (6), Brett Merlin, Avery (5), Jason A.

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Team Daddy-Daughter on the Summit of the First Flatiron on 11/13/2021. L-to-R: Clove (6), Brett Merlin, Avery (5), Jason A.

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0. Far Right, 2.
<br>
1. Direct E Face, 6R.
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1a. Butterfly, 6R.
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2. Fandango, 5.
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2a. Variation, 6.
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3. Baker's Way, 3.
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4. Way of the Ancients, 7R.
<br>
5. Zig Zag, 7.
<br>
6. ?Kamikaze, 9?
<br>
9. Hubris, 6.
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Unmarked Atlanta, 3.

From the summit, 9/5/10, shortly after the fires began.<br>
<br>
Posted with permission.

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4.3 from 6 votes

Jason Antin

Nov 14, 2021

“Team Daddy-Daughter on the Summit of the First Flatiron on 11/13/2021. L-to-R: Clove (6), Brett Merlin, Avery (5), Jason A.”

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Evening scramble up the First Flatiron with the Gociety crew.

The first and second from the top of the Third. October '09.

Sitting on top of the East ridge on the false summit of the 1st Flatiron just before the rappel.

Avery Antin (5) and Clove Merlin (6) navigate the chimney slot on the Direct East Face of the First Flatiron with some guidance from Brett Merlin, 11/13/2021.

As of today: the sketchy eye bolt has been replaced with a modern, 1/2" x 4.75", 5 piece, stainless bolt.

At the base of the Direct Route. The tree at top of first pitch is visible.

6 in the morning and a sweet day of climbing ahead of us

Further up the trail heading towards the First Flatiron.

A view of the north side of the First taken from the First Flatironette.

Mike on False Summit of 1st Flatiron Direct East Route.

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$This is my impression of the Dumas Direct (5.8R), which uses some climber-left variants to the Direct. It is a fun route and climbs very well (though the pro on P1-3 is runout, it's a soft .8). The first pitch goes to the first bolt then cuts left and goes into an overhang with a crack. P2 is similar to Direct and goes to a bolt & crack for belay anchor. P3 goes up and left to thin & wild section to an overhang & belay stance for 2, small gear. Be aware the last time I climbed this the belay here is a flake that was fractured, a factor 2 fall could be bad!! However, the P4 climbing grade eases (It also gets a little steeper, but it's a jugfest) to join up the Direct at the false summit. Just a great & fun route! Original photo submitted to mp.com by: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001 $

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