Once the col is totally out: We climbed a short pitch of 5.7/8 on the left side of the broken blocks at the base of SW face (bottom of photo). Scramble right to the base of the big chimney. dont go up, climb around to the R at 5.5ish to base of route.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Bugaboos > Snowpatch Spire > Sunshine Crack (5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c)

Once the col is totally out: We climbed a short pitch of 5.7/8 on the left side of the broken blocks at the base of SW face (bottom of photo). Scramble right to the base of the big chimney. dont go up, climb around to the R at 5.5ish to base of route.

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Pitch 4.

The roof on Pitch 5. The route line on our route description seemed to go over the roof just right of the crack on the lower wall. This move was an athletic jug pull over the roof with a somewhat desperate clip of a fixed nut. It felt 5.10. On the rappel we saw a party surmounting the roof further left, which looked a bit easier. That way had been a bit wet in the morning so we had not even really considered it. But it might be the easier way to go if dry. Either way works and is great climbing.

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Seth Gillis

Sep 18, 2021

“Once the col is totally out: We climbed a short pitch of 5.7/8 on the left side of the broken blocks at the base of SW face (bottom of photo). Scramble right to the base of the big chimney. dont go up, climb around to the R at 5.5ish to base of route.”

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Pitch 1.

Approaching Sunshine Crack.

On top of the route. North summit behind. Most parties rappel the route. But you can continue to the North summit via the Buckingham route and rapping the Beckey-Greenwood rappel route.

North side of Snowpatch Spire seen from lower part of Kain Route.

Jon on the hand rail of Pitch 3.

D. Snipes on the 1st pitch of Sunshine Crack

Pitch 8.

Pitch 6.

upper pitch of Sunshine crack

The pitch 2 offwidth.

Pitch 11 has two options: Either make a 5.10 bouldery move out left to gain a 5.8 crack or climb a 5.10+ crack to the right. We went left (pictured n the photo).

Pitch 7. The 5.11- roof is above.

Andrew G. coming up the layback on pitch 3.

Following the third pitch

This is the bonus 50' 5.10 corner (followed by 4th class) we climbed to get to the base because the B-S col was unloading huge rocks every couple minutes. This pitch might be hard to access depending on the condition of the bergschrund.

Pitch 9. (this was when the sun first hit us on the route, at 2:30pm, July 28, 2106).

Pitch 2.

The first rappel. All of the rappels are off the belay anchors on the route. We made 8 double-rope rappels (rapped from anchors at tops of: P11, P9, P8, P7, P5, P4, P3, P1) to get down although I think we could have done it in 7 (could probably rap all the way to P2 from P). You definitely need two ropes (or a single 80m rope) to rappel the route, as some pitches are up to 40m long.

Pitch 4.

Once the col is totally out: We climbed a short pitch of 5.7/8 on the left side of the broken blocks at the base of SW face (bottom of photo). Scramble right to the base of the big chimney. dont go up, climb around to the R at 5.5ish to base of route.

The roof on Pitch 5. The route line on our route description seemed to go over the roof just right of the crack on the lower wall. This move was an athletic jug pull over the roof with a somewhat desperate clip of a fixed nut. It felt 5.10. On the rappel we saw a party surmounting the roof further left, which looked a bit easier. That way had been a bit wet in the morning so we had not even really considered it. But it might be the easier way to go if dry. Either way works and is great climbing.

Rapping down the east face of snowpatch

Unknown Climber on Pitch 2. Bugaboo Corner follows that OW crack and Sunshine pulls hands out the roof on the right crack just above climber in green, then follow a handrail right