Looking at the third class ledges to start Petzoldt. I recommend starting where the picture is taken. You'll find easy 4th to a couple 5th class moves for 70 meters that will take you to a nice ledge where route "starts".

All Locations > Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Grand Teton > Direct Petzoldt Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Looking at the third class ledges to start Petzoldt. I recommend starting where the picture is taken. You'll find easy 4th to a couple 5th class moves for 70 meters that will take you to a nice ledge where route "starts".

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Topo I drew. Not great quality, but hopefully helpful

Felt like this route could use an actual beta photo. We did the route in 4 pitches w/ a 70m. Rough estimates of the path we took in red. Green lines pointing to the memorable features. See Kirk's photo for the view of the p1 starting ramp.

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5.0 from 1 vote

Josh Allred

Sep 6, 2021

“Looking at the third class ledges to start Petzoldt. I recommend starting where the picture is taken. You'll find easy 4th to a couple 5th class moves for 70 meters that will take you to a nice ledge where route "starts".”

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Nearby Photos

1978

Petzoldt Direct will always be a very special climb to me- it is on that route that I proposed to my wife!! Check out that rock (on her finger)

A climber on the Petzoldt Ridge, with the Teepee Pillar and Bradley Lake in the background, as viewed from the Direct Exum.

Topo I drew. Not great quality, but hopefully helpful

Looking at the third class ledges to start Petzoldt. I recommend starting where the picture is taken. You'll find easy 4th to a couple 5th class moves for 70 meters that will take you to a nice ledge where route "starts".

Felt like this route could use an actual beta photo. We did the route in 4 pitches w/ a 70m. Rough estimates of the path we took in red. Green lines pointing to the memorable features. See Kirk's photo for the view of the p1 starting ramp.

Kelby Fisher on one of the most classic pitches anywhere, which combines two of the craziest features of the route: the "window" and this awesome hand traverse.

Kyra Silitch high on the Petzoldt Ridge

Belaying up on the Direct Petzoldt

rest break

Looking across the valley from near the top of the Petzoldt ridge.

Starting up the Petzoldt direct.

I found Spencer Weiler's topo exactly as he predicted: incredibly helpful, but very hard to read; so I redrew it after I did the route. My friend said the pitch lengths should be taken with a grain of salt.

The Window Pitch.

a couple of guys on the Petzoldt Ridge, taken from the Exum Ridge

From the summit (via Petzoldt to Upper Exum)

Cumbre!

This is where the weakness in the rock bands is the easiest. We actually went underneath the snow where it was thickest. On top of the snow is just as sketchy without micros or softer snow. Most ideal is when the couloir has no snow. Watch for rockfall!

The action! (from August 2012)

Near the top of the Petzolt Ridge. Photo courtesy of Andy Gresh

Prime real estate!

Bad ass belayer

Hangin out on a very cold morning on the Direct Petzoldt Ridge.

Working from the Petzoldt ridge to the summit.

behold!

Start of pitch 6

Two climbers on the Petzoldt

Who could resist some Nutella at the top?!

following the 5th pitch

Belaying beauty

The little descent off the top of the route, you can see the anchor webbing for scale. 30m of cord would get you down

The glorious summit!

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