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All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Sundance Buttress > Guillotine (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)
5.9 crack to finish off pitch 3. This can be avoided by easier terrain around left, if you so wish.
ID 121225380 · · Copyright Violation?
Starting the 3rd pitch out of the "Bay Window" on the first ascent, June 12, 1962.
A piton on pitch 3, protecting the 5.9 original route just right of the arete.
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Steph Abegg
Aug 29, 2021
“5.9 crack to finish off pitch 3. This can be avoided by easier terrain around left, if you so wish.”  

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Nearby Photos

Andy Working up into the slot of the guillotine. Really tight squeeze hold off on that last beer the night before!
Working over the awkward flake near the top of the 1st pitch on the 1st ascent June 12, 1962.
Starting the 3rd pitch out of the "Bay Window" on the first ascent, June 12, 1962.
5.9 crack to finish off pitch 3. This can be avoided by easier terrain around left, if you so wish.
A piton on pitch 3, protecting the 5.9 original route just right of the arete.
There are a few options for pitch 3. Either climb one of these crack systems, or climb the crack on the outside of the face on the right, out of view in the photo. The crack to the right is the route described in the guidebook.
I'm about to burrow upwards into the guilllotine.
working through the opening moves of P3. If this picture was wider, the left side of the frame would show the wide cracks. They didn't look appealing to me, and this face (where the fixed pin is) was super exposed and fun.
Tommy headed up P2 to the Bay Window
Getting some gear just before the hardest moves of P1.
Gary Moore leading the "Piranha Chimney" (4th pitch) on the 1st ascent, June 12, 1962.
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