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All Locations > Montana > Northwest Region > Kalispell Area > Glacier NP > Mt St Nicholas > NE Ridge, Mt St Nicholas (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)
2nd fixed nut with draw hanging in corner above TCU protecting 1st move. Move back left after fixed nut to a .5-1 Camalot crack. Pitch = short so no need to worry on rope drag.
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Upper route is particularly steppy for raps. Free climb down as far as comfortable. Dial your saddlebag rope carrying/rap system to speed your raps up. Otherwise lots of rope hang ups on ledges = you'll have to recoil and toss again.
A TCU (HB 0) right underneath a chunk of quartz with a positive lip below (rest of crack flares) protects first overhanging move on the climb if the snow cornice is melted away. I yarded & hung on it. Totally holds. A .125 white tricam might work too.
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Minot Maser
Aug 25, 2021
“2nd fixed nut with draw hanging in corner above TCU protecting 1st move. Move back left after fixed nut to a .5-1 Camalot crack. Pitch = short so no need to worry on rope drag.”  

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Nearby Photos

Top of pitch 3 at the ledge, at the C3 party.
Looking back on the approach from coal creek, camped by the small snow patch at the saddle of the ridgeline
AC leads a pitch on the NE Ridge of St Nick. Seth Anderson Photo.
Looking back on the approach and climbing from the NE.
Upper route is particularly steppy for raps. Free climb down as far as comfortable. Dial your saddlebag rope carrying/rap system to speed your raps up. Otherwise lots of rope hang ups on ledges = you'll have to recoil and toss again.
2nd fixed nut with draw hanging in corner above TCU protecting 1st move. Move back left after fixed nut to a .5-1 Camalot crack. Pitch = short so no need to worry on rope drag.
A TCU (HB 0) right underneath a chunk of quartz with a positive lip below (rest of crack flares) protects first overhanging move on the climb if the snow cornice is melted away. I yarded & hung on it. Totally holds. A .125 white tricam might work too.
Edwards mentions this approach via the Rotunda Cirque: Walton/Park Creek/schwack to Striped Elk Lake/mellow to St. Nick. It's ... interesting.
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