Gordon Larsen at the anchor slings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bok4YyEj0GA shows POV of climbing the wild 4th pitch.

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Fisher Towers > Ancient Art > Stolen Chimney (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0)

Gordon Larsen at the anchor slings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bok4YyEj0GA shows POV of climbing the wild 4th pitch.

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this is fun

Beta topo showing the belay stances and the rappel down the face. Companion doc for more experienced folks looking to save time and reduce risk on the traverse: https://goo.gl/opAmWB

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5.0 from 2 votes

Chris Andrew

Jun 7, 2021

“Gordon Larsen at the anchor slings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bok4YyEj0GA shows POV of climbing the wild 4th pitch.”

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Nearby Photos

Trained a long time for this

The sun rising and warming up the towers on the final pitch

Wide angle pano of the top out.

The idea is a star trail topo of stolen chimney. I did a 2.5 hour exposure. I'm going to shoot it again because it is not what I was looking for. It's not bad so I figured I'd share it. The sky went green on it's own during the long exposure, perhaps it was some aurora borealis (not likely, I think I would have noticed it, but cameras can capture color that we can't see) or maybe a hot sensor, or my polarizer filter caused it, I really don't know.

Cannon AE-1

A fine evening on Ancient Art. Exposure is a little more manageable in the dark!

Summited right at sunset

The Ancient Art of Humping by Tracy Roach. :-)

Mario descending from the corkscrew summit. That previous photo Cameron is Jimmy P, not me, and as you know its after a leap from the rim above all the towers and 2000' above the parking area. Cheers, where is your new FA in the system bro?

Stolen Chimney/Ancient Art Topo<br>
<br>
I climbed the route for my second time last week and figured I'd make this while the route was still somewhat fresh in my mind. <br>
<br>
A very comfortable rack would be 1.5 set of cams and a set of nuts. A single set of cams will suffice for more experienced leaders.<br>
<br>
EDIT 5/12/12: Updated to reflect bolt replacement.

Summit of the corkscrew

We drove too far not to summit on my birthday!

Ancient Art, as seen on the 2016 Summer Solstice.

Hula Hooping on top- is this a first?

Aaron Shupp demonstrating "jump 'n' hump" method on diving board

Climber on the summit of Ancient Art March 2008.

Jumping for joy on the summit!

Laura Sasso on Stolen Chimney

Family Vacation! Tip top of Ancient Art

Ben free climbing the 10+ bolt ladder.

Glory light on the last pitch. More images here: http://charlesstemen.com/south-sixshooter-ancient-art-in-a-day/

Full moon photo shoot with @zachcooleyphoto

Exposure on the sidewalk

Standing on the top. The shadow in the back outlines the scenario.

"Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free.."

Summit of Ancient Art

Climber on summit of Ancient Art, as seen from the trail bottom.

Eddie summit bound and doing some snow sweeping on a frigid January ascent of Ancient Art. Fisher Towers, UT.

Stolen Chimney pitches

Looking back from the summit

Bailey Crawford summits with the sunset!

mitch with his head in the clouds

evening light

this is fun

Gordon Larsen at the anchor slings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bok4YyEj0GA shows POV of climbing the wild 4th pitch.

Beta topo showing the belay stances and the rappel down the face. Companion doc for more experienced folks looking to save time and reduce risk on the traverse: https://goo.gl/opAmWB

The Sidewalk as seen from the summit

Joey, tagging along on Ancient Art. It was his first desert tower.

The first and third pitches were a bit nerve wracking, with some pebbles to hold onto. The second pitch was an easy chimney, but it was fun. I used 6-7 pieces of protection, including cams and nuts. It was a bit scary at the end, but it was great！

The Money Pitch

Best moves on the route. Exposed, but juggy and well protected.

Yeeewww!!!

Matt with the Karate Kid summit.

Start of the cool chimney pitch. Interesting bulge above the climber.

Luckily it turned out that the raven is no longer the harbinger of doom, once thought to be.

Myself practicing crane technique.

Classic summit shot!

fisheye shot of stolen chimney. the first two pitches are a bit hazy...

Loren Seeks groveling up the chimney.

Dammit Steve, I almost couldn't pay out the rope fast enough!<br>
<br>
Photo by Lucy Clark

climbers on route

DO NOT DO THIS! We did not notice until a later ascent that this large block that Brent is yarding on is loose and held in place with mud. It looks like the perfect block to throw a sling over to protect the last move onto the belay ledge. If this baby goes, it will looks like it could just get funneled right down onto the first belay. Yikes!

Rappelling off the catwalk back to the party ledge. Castleton Tower in the distance.

A group of pals waiting for the summit pitch!

Bowling Trophy

How many people can you fit in a telephone booth?

Climbers on Ancient Art.

Four men deep in prayer.

belay ledge views

one legged pose atop the ancient art. great day to climb at fisher tower.

In This Photo

Gordon Larsen

St. George, UT

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