Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Ypsilon Mountain > Blitzen Ridge (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.

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Blitzen track with Chapin TH descent.

The Four Aces and final headwall - the meat of the route

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sam flournoy

Mar 29, 2005

“Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.”

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Wade Morris near the top of the 3rd Ace, 2017 Winter.

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Wow! Exposure at its best. 6/06.

The full cirque (with most of the traverse we did).

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A photo overlay of the Four Aces as seen on approach via the Lower Ridge.

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A photo overlay of the Four Aces as from below near Spectacle Lakes.

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A small glimpse at some of the exposure and ledges.
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Photo by Ally B.

Slabby dihedral on the left side of the 3rd Ace. I thought this was the best bit of climbing on the route.

Julia traversing to the right around the 4th Ace. The Third Ace is to the left of the photo. The rappel from the third ace goes straight down from the summit while the downclimb sticks to the ridge.

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The start of the route, just before dropping down to traverse across the First Ace.

Unnecessary anchors that have recently been added to the ridge. This are intended to "rappel" the easily protected 5.2 downclimb/traverse. My opinion is that these anchors should be removed.

Just below the summit, on the descent. Blitzen on the left and Donner on the right.

Halfway up the last headwall with the prominent 4th Ace behind us.

An unknown climber downclimbing the 3rd Ace. The 4th Ace is to the left of the photo. Shot from Spectacle Lake, 7/30/22.

Fast and light afternoon ascent of Blitzen ridge with Stefan Griebel. Downclimbing one of the aces before continuing up.

Good view of the Aces.

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En route to the summit. Spectacular! 6/06.

Looking across to Blitzen Ridge as we start the descent down Donner Ridge.

Easy going so far on Donner.

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Looking down Blitzen Ridge.

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Blitzen track with Chapin TH descent.

Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.

The Four Aces and final headwall - the meat of the route

Our route across the 1st Ace. Rob is at the crux here.

Spectacle Lakes from the approach gully.

Kepley on the Blitzen's airy final approach.

'Aces high' and the final approach ridge of the Blitzen.

Approach gully from lower Spectacle Lake.

Donner Ridge (descent we used).

Progress so far.

Tony M. on Ace 1.

Donner Ridge (routefinding was fairly easy; we made a couple of mid-class 5 downclimbing moves).

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A good 5.5-5.6 option on the 4th ace. Soloists, watch for those loose flakes.

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The downclimb on the back of the third Ace.

Bypassing the tower on the ledge system.

And the ridge goes on.

Ryne Greene about done with the thousand feet of 4th class. Photo taken just before he couldn't take the exposure and asked to be short roped by partner, Sam Flournoy.

Back to lower Spectacle Lake.

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Super fun with lots of exposure.