Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Ypsilon Mountain > Blitzen Ridge (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.

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The Aces, July '04.

The Four Aces and final headwall - the meat of the route

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sam flournoy

Mar 29, 2005

“Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.”

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Meaty part of the Blitzen Ridge.

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'Aces high' and the final approach ridge of the Blitzen.

Donner Ridge (descent we used).

Approach gully from lower Spectacle Lake.

Good view of the Aces.

Just below the summit, on the descent. Blitzen on the left and Donner on the right.

Spectacle Lakes from the approach gully.

Tony M. on Ace 1.

Another view of Spectacle Lakes and Donner Ridge.

Donner Ridge (routefinding was fairly easy; we made a couple of mid-class 5 downclimbing moves).

Progress so far.

The Aces, July '04.

Beta shot for posing down hard on the summit of Ypsilon, Sam Flournoy and Ryne Greene.

The Four Aces and final headwall - the meat of the route

Blitzen meeting the "Y". July '04.

Ypsilon from Chipmunk Lake.

About to start the 4 Aces.

Sunrise view of the upper cirque, Blitzen on the right, Donner on the left, and the late season Y Couloir central.

I took this while belaying a climber down the 4th Ace. In background see a lead climber on the final headwall.

Keen traversing around the Fourth Ace.

Most of the rock on the exposed bits was good (for CO).

Looking across to Blitzen Ridge as we start the descent down Donner Ridge.

Bypassing the tower on the ledge system.

Exposure.

A good 5.5-5.6 option on the 4th ace. Soloists, watch for those loose flakes.

Ryne Greene about done with the thousand feet of 4th class. Photo taken just before he couldn't take the exposure and asked to be short roped by partner, Sam Flournoy.

The final section of Blitzen Ridge, photo taken 7/4/2018. Minimal snow and blue skies all day for a great day of independence. It was at this point that I was feeling happy to see hikers on the summit - was able to hitch a ride from the Chapin side.

Looking down Blitzen Ridge.

Hard to see the Aces from this angle.

Bill Duncan and the Blitzen Ridge.

Looking across the cirque.

Looking back at the fouth and third ace from the top of the headwall.

Back to lower Spectacle Lake.

The Third Ace as seen from the fourth.

Blitzen track with Chapin TH descent.

Final descent down to the Spectacle Lakes.

The Blitz.

Fast and light afternoon ascent of Blitzen ridge with Stefan Griebel. Downclimbing one of the aces before continuing up.

Ypsilon from the top of the direct approach from Ypsilon Lake.

The downclimb on the back of the third Ace.

Almost past the Aces.

And the ridge goes on.

Keen Butterworth enjoying the smashing view of the lower Ypsilon cirque from atop the Blitzen Ridge headwall.

Tony M. with Spectacle Lakes below.

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Wade Morris and I shouldered 40lb+ training packs and jumped on the Blitzen Ridge in the winter of 2017. It proved to be a very productive, and full-on AK training mission.