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All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Lower Dream Canyon > Wall of Winter… > Direct Cop Out (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)
At the crux at the end of P2. There is a bolt to the left of my hip and another one just above my head. These bolts are unnecessary, because 1) You've just led some spicy 10 trad to get to this point and so, presumably, you are a competent trad climber, 2) there is excellent gear at my knee level, and 3) there is a small but good brass nut at my head level just a bit below the level of the higher bolt.<br> <br> Photo by Chuck Graves.
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On the 3rd and last pitch. This pitch is 8 or easy 9. It's way runout above the ceiling at the skyline above Chuck with the difficulty depending on how directly you climb. Maybe 5.6 or 7 if you climb straight up. Fun on TR.<br> <br> The old bolt is in the groove at the bottom left of the photo. Chuck chose to climb the natural line directly above the belay and right of the bolt, but should you choose to climb directly at the bolt, there is some gear, and the moves at the bolt are not particularly hard.
At the technical crux. The mental crux for me was the slabby thin crack getting to the ceiling below my feet. Due to foreshortening, the ropes look like they are zig-zagging more than they are.<br> <br> Photo by Chuck Graves.
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Ivan Rezucha
Jan 9, 2005
“At the crux at the end of P2. There is a bolt to the left of my hip and another one just above my head. These bolts are unnecessary, because 1) You've just led some spicy 10 trad to get to this point and so, presumably, you are a competent trad climber, 2) there is excellent gear at my knee level, and 3) there is a small but good brass nut at my head level just a bit below the level of the higher bolt.

Photo by Chuck Graves.”  

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1985 or '86.
Bindy just below the bolted roof.
On the 3rd and last pitch. This pitch is 8 or easy 9. It's way runout above the ceiling at the skyline above Chuck with the difficulty depending on how directly you climb. Maybe 5.6 or 7 if you climb straight up. Fun on TR.<br> <br> The old bolt is in the groove at the bottom left of the photo. Chuck chose to climb the natural line directly above the belay and right of the bolt, but should you choose to climb directly at the bolt, there is some gear, and the moves at the bolt are not particularly hard.
On the 3rd and last pitch. This pitch is 8 or easy 9. It's way runout above the ceiling at the skyline above Chuck with the difficulty depending on how directly you climb. Maybe 5.6 or 7 if you climb straight up. Fun on TR.<br> <br> The old bolt is in the groove at the bottom left of the photo. Chuck chose to climb the natural line directly above the belay and right of the bolt, but should you choose to climb directly at the bolt, there is some gear, and the moves at the bolt are not particularly hard.
At the crux at the end of P2. There is a bolt to the left of my hip and another one just above my head. These bolts are unnecessary, because 1) You've just led some spicy 10 trad to get to this point and so, presumably, you are a competent trad climber, 2) there is excellent gear at my knee level, and 3) there is a small but good brass nut at my head level just a bit below the level of the higher bolt.<br> <br> Photo by Chuck Graves.
At the technical crux. The mental crux for me was the slabby thin crack getting to the ceiling below my feet. Due to foreshortening, the ropes look like they are zig-zagging more than they are.<br> <br> Photo by Chuck Graves.
Stepping over the lip. It's likely this was climbed a long time ago, since there's an old quarter inch bolt at the ledge directly above this ceiling.<br> <br> Photo by Chuck Graves.
At the ceiling. Reach from the huge horn at my right to another huge horn. About 5.8 unless you're particularly short.<br> <br> Photo by Chuck Graves.

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Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
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