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Don't solo up to the pin! Bomber gear protects the roof and would keep you from tumbling if you fall from higher up trying to clip the pin. If you can't make the clip, lower down from the jug and drop off, and you'll be fine. Or place the 1" cam on the right side of the jug. I used a 1.5 offset Friend there, but I recommend NOT placing this unless you can't make the clip--placing this cam may get you too tired to make the clip. The top piece below the roof is a large Astro. You have to be pretty tall to reach this placement. The top 3 placements I placed blind by leaning right off of big sidepulls.
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Ivan Rezucha
Sep 5, 2004
Don't solo up to the pin! Bomber gear protects the roof and would keep you from tumbling if you fall from higher up trying to clip the pin. If you can't make the clip, lower down from the jug and drop off, and you'll be fine. Or place the 1" cam on the right side of the jug. I used a 1.5 offset Friend there, but I recommend NOT placing this unless you can't make the clip--placing this cam may get you too tired to make the clip. The top piece below the roof is a large Astro. You have to be pretty tall to reach this placement. The top 3 placements I placed blind by leaning right off of big sidepulls.  
Now that's a diagram! How pumped did you get placing all that? Personally I always go to the pin, but then again I have flawless beta that is mercilessly wired. I can say that it is possible to take a really bad fall from this roof. People barn door off and cartwheel downhill. So by all means do what you got to do. It's your neck! Oct 27, 2012
I suggest that you just rally to the pin, saving your arms for the glorious upper pitches. It's the first couple moves off of the deck that'll get you. But you're right off of the deck, so no worries. Oct 19, 2011

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