Following pitch 4 on the SW Corner of the Saber

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Saber > Southwest Corner (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Following pitch 4 on the SW Corner of the Saber

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Climbers on the Saber. Taken from the Petit raps - 7/25/15 9:45AM.

Southwest Corner, Sabre.

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4.8 from 10 votes

Ken Leiden

Aug 16, 2004

“Following pitch 4 on the SW Corner of the Saber”

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Nearby Photos

A photo route overlay of Saber SE Corner, Kor Route, and SW Corner.

Climbers on the Saber. Taken from the Petit raps - 7/25/15 9:45AM.

Following pitch 4 on the SW Corner of the Saber

Southwest Corner, Sabre.

Unknown party on the Southwest Corner from the Petit.

A route photo overlay for SW Corner, SE Corner, and Kor Route.

High Res of the first 3 pitches...<br>
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The 3rd pitch had a few gripping 5.10 moves as you link thin cracks moving right from the arete back to the large LF dihedral. I thought this pitch was harder than the "crux" pitch.

Looking down at the Petit summit from the top of Southwest Corner.

Awesome exposure on the Southwest Corner.

Unknown climber on the Southwest Corner.

Pitch 3. Go left from belay, then ascend up face with thin cracks, and climb the left-facing corner above.

Leading P3 with Petite climbers in the backround.

Climbers on the lower route (seen from the Petit Grepon).

One of the belays as seen from the Petit.

Nate A. at the thin cracks on face on pitch 3. The corner is above.

Pitch 4. Climb a dihedral on the left side of the arete. A couple of choices.

Carl and Justin atop pitch 4, great perch.

Petit on the left, Saber in the center and the Foil on the right.

Frosty linking the middle pitches.

The top of the crux pitch.

There are many variations at the top. We ended up taking purple to pink to green. The green finish had its share of "dubious" blocks although the top dihedral was a lot of fun. The leftward, rising traverse at the start of purple was fantastic with amazing exposure!

Alternatives on the upper pitches of the SW Corner. The purple line is the money. The pink variation is another way I've climbed it. The red line is Guy H's line. <br>
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One warning is that I've taken a variation at the beginning of pitch 4 by heading up a 30 ft runout and traversing above a roof across at an overlap. It's exquisite exposure this way.

Justin on pitch 5, almost into the big corner.

Pitch 2.

A high res picture of the upper 2 pitches and the route that we took. There appears to be many variations. Has anyone climbed the first dihedral to the left of the arete? The protection looked a little thin in that direction.

Pitch 4. Awesome exposure as you go left around the arete.

Start of the 10a pitch.

Looking up at pitch 5. We climbed the crack in the center of the photo, although you could probably also climb the juggy face to the left or the wide corner with chockstones to the right. Going straight up seemed a bit hard but was good climbing.

About to reach the first belay.

Nate A. starting up pitch 1.

Tony Bubb (in blue) finishing the beautiful corner on The Sabre. Sweet exposure!

This is my preferred way to get around the arete on pitch 4.

Andrew Klein following the classic upper dihedrals (5.9) on the SW corner of the Saber (5.10a).

A climber on the SW Corner exiting the shadow of the Petit.

Starting up pitch 1.

Climbers on the upper route (seen from the Petit Grepon).

The corner on pitch 1.

Andrew Klein following about half way up the crux pitch of the SW corner (5.10a) of the Saber.

SW Corner.

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