The 5.8 slab and the 10c crux pitch.

All Locations > Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Mountain > Mickey Mouse Wall > Captain Beyond (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b)

The 5.8 slab and the 10c crux pitch.

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Luke Clarke on the 5.8 third pitch. The move off the ledge could be an ankle breaker but is over quickly, one way or another.

Working through the crux of pitch 1. (3 of 3)

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Ivan Rezucha

Oct 12, 2003

“The 5.8 slab and the 10c crux pitch.”

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Nearby Photos

Chuck Graves at the 10c crux. A few more feet and you can get inside, and it eases to 5.9.

Joseffa Meir on Captain Beyond.<br>
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Photo by Tony Bubb, perhaps 2004.

The start of pitch one is not visible in the photo. Pitch 5 is barely visible. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined. Pitch 3 and 4 can easily be combined.

Steve finishing pitch two, miles of beautiful finger locks.

Last or 4th pitch, and a lot harder than it looks. Brad White on lead.

Steve walking the second pitch.

Luke Clarke on the 5.8 third pitch. The move off the ledge could be an ankle breaker but is over quickly, one way or another.

The 5.8 slab and the 10c crux pitch.

Working through the crux of pitch 1. (3 of 3)

Working through the crux of pitch 1. (1 of 3)

On the last pitch.

Great album dedicated to the memory of Duane Allman.

Captain Beyond pitch 1 from the Perversion ledge. Great December 1st weather.

Working through the crux of pitch 1. (2 of 3)

Great rest here, but first you have to see it, and then you have to get into it. You can place gear over the ceiling from here.<br>
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Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Looking down the 1st pitch, Brad White climbing. This pitch sets the tone for more to come.

Peering up at the first hard moves. Fingertip laybacks lead to a great fingerlock, but it continues hard until you're situated in the left-facing corner.<br>
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Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Placing gear at the base of the wide crack. A #4 Camalot is a little small at first, but you can push it up into a better spot as you thrutch your way up.<br>
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Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Mickey Mouse Wall is very, very good to me.

Greg leading Sidewinder.

Looking up at the first hard moves in the left crack. The first move to get stood up into the shallow, right-facing corner is easy with a trick, but then it's problematic just staying there due to no handholds.<br>
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Photo by Paul Rezucha.

The traverse is easy until this point, when it gets slightly dicey. I'm climbing with double ropes. The left, blue, rope is clipped to the big cam at the top of the wide crack. I climbed several placements from there on the right, red rope, then clipped the blue to the sling over the horn midway across the traverse. I clipped the red after making the first hard move up the left crack. Rope drag was minimal this way, but the ropes are still heavy by the end of this long pitch.<br>
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Photo by Paul Rezucha.

Bryce starting the 5.10 climbing on the final pitch— a beautiful, vertical corner to end the route!

The first move above the ceiling is pretty easy. The next move is much harder.<br>
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Photo by Paul Rezucha.

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