After the undercling moves on the big flake. You approach these moves from the tiny, left-facing corner on the right. The bolt above the crux is just below the climber. You can put a big cam in the flake (blue/@POUND@3 Camalot) but would it hold, or would it blow the flake?
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Ivan Rezucha
Sep 27, 2003
After the undercling moves on the big flake. You approach these moves from the tiny, left-facing corner on the right. The bolt above the crux is just below the climber. You can put a big cam in the flake (blue/#3 Camalot) but would it hold, or would it blow the flake?
Lucien Heart
Boulder, CO
Lucien Heart   Boulder, CO
Your photo asks an important question, which we found the answer to today! The blue Camalot did NOT hold in the flake. It popped, and my leader took an exciting fall. Was grateful I thought to anchor the belay! There's a good, #2 yellow Camalot placement right at your feet and a red #1 just behind you. Not flying up probably saved me from being hit from above, and at least saved my leader from falling another 5-10 feet. This is one belay stance I would highly recommend anchoring. May 6, 2014
Steve Annecone
boulder
Steve Annecone   boulder
I think this original photo comment is referring to a possible #3 Camalot where the leader is shown, in that huge flake above the crux. However, I'm assuming you placed a #3 lower at the crux, near the old pin which is now gone? If so, I wouldn't think it would hold there, too flared... but there's a bomber 0.75 Camalot to be had just below that location in a shallow crack under the small roof/lip, maybe 3 feet above the first bolt. The crack is visible in this photo.

By the way, I found your draw, feel free to email me via MP to get it back. May 9, 2014
Gregger Man
Broomfield, CO
Gregger Man   Broomfield, CO
Take note: that 0.75 Camalot is no longer bomber. The entire kneebar flake at the crux is hollow sounding now. Jun 13, 2014

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