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All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Arches NP > Park Avenue > West > Cleopatras Rock… > Lower Tier > Red Zinger (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13)
Looking into the awkward AF OW/LB. It expands abruptly inside, with a lot wrong going for it.
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Can you tell I was scared? The rock crushed and popped some of the lobes when I tested cams, so I had to reposition them and set them deeper. Needless to say, I gave up free climbing and French freed the final 6 ft.
Starting into the upper crack. It only gets thinner and sandier from here.
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Mark Thomas
Jan 1, 2021
“Looking into the awkward AF OW/LB. It expands abruptly inside, with a lot wrong going for it.”  

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Nearby Photos

The upper part of the upper crack. It is all #0.5 & thinner from here on out for cam placements and jams! Have fun.
View down from the top.
Can you tell I was scared? The rock crushed and popped some of the lobes when I tested cams, so I had to reposition them and set them deeper. Needless to say, I gave up free climbing and French freed the final 6 ft.
Looking into the awkward AF OW/LB. It expands abruptly inside, with a lot wrong going for it.
Starting into the upper crack. It only gets thinner and sandier from here.
The view up from the bail ledge. Choose to go to the easy anchor on your right to make it a 5.8 climb, or continue up for glory.
Red Zinger from where the belayer stands.
The finger crack to start off the route. Don't believe the Bjornstad guidebook illustrating you climbing the crescent flakes on the left to ultimately intersect the corner above. That is a pile of lies.
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