Bill Wright topping out on the second pitch, East Ridge of the Maiden.

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Bill Wright topping out on the second pitch, East Ridge of the Maiden.

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George Bell topping out on the first pitch.

Bill Wright begins to move left after making the reach up to the high horizontal crack. From the angle of the rope, one can see a fall from here would not be fun. This photo is about 4' farther right than the last.

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George Bell

May 20, 2002

“Bill Wright topping out on the second pitch, East Ridge of the Maiden.”

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Bill Wright starting the crux of the variation to pitch 5, East Ridge of the Maiden.

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Topping out on the 5.10b section of pitch 3, Aug. 2014.

George Bell topping out on the first pitch.

Bill Wright topping out on the second pitch, East Ridge of the Maiden.

Bill Wright begins to move left after making the reach up to the high horizontal crack. From the angle of the rope, one can see a fall from here would not be fun. This photo is about 4' farther right than the last.

Headless Bill Wright moves right after clipping the first 2 bolts on the 3rd pitch of the East Ridge of the Maiden (the third bolt is in line with the other 2 but is almost invisible in this photo).

Taken from the belay on South Crack.

P1, 10c or so, much harder than it looks.

On the 5.7 variation to the first pitch. Worth doing if you have done the 5.10 first pitch before.

Near the top of P1.

Matt on P2.

Near the top of P1, with P2 (5.7) and P3 (10a or so) visible.

P4 (we belayed at the notch then did the rest as 2 shorter pitches).

Leading P3 (10a or so). Move right precariously to this point, up, then back left on good holds.

Matt starts P5a (we split the last pitch into 2 shorter ones to avoid rope drag).

Fighting through the first bulge...

The view east.

At the end of the crux on the 3rd pitch. South Crack (5.11c) can be seen to the left.

No summit sea monkeys today, just frozen bubbles.

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Afternoon light; P1 is the crack near the right side of the formation.

Moving right to the arete on P3. It's easy to link P2 and P3, but there's a bit of drag after you move around the arete on the left. Linking the two pitches makes the moves off the P2 belay safer, since more rope is out.

Kuba navigating through some tricky climbing on pitch 3, Aug. 2014.

At the arete, if you're tall enough, you can maneuver your feet and reach up to a one joint finger hold. Then traverse left back to the 3rd bolt along the slightly rising thin horizontal crack. If you're too short, the move at the arete must be pretty hard. In any case, a fall from here would be ugly, since the bolt is about 10' to the left.

East Ridge. Kuba Musial on the exposed pitch 5.

CT making P1 look like 5.9.

A different angle on the tricky crux move.

Bill Wright checks out the variation on pitch 5 of the East Ridge. At this point the regular route traverses up and right.