Gary and Dale at the 'crux' belay. Dry conditions made for reasonably straightforward climbing in the chimneys.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Coast Mountains > Waddington Range > Mt Waddington > Bravo Glacier to Sout… (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b AI3 M3+ Steep Snow)

Gary and Dale at the 'crux' belay. Dry conditions made for reasonably straightforward climbing in the chimneys.

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about halfway up the SE chimney route

Traversing a serac barrier on the Cauldron headwall

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Peter Cole

Dec 16, 2020

“Gary and Dale at the 'crux' belay. Dry conditions made for reasonably straightforward climbing in the chimneys.”

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Nearby Photos

From Bravo Col, 2018. Spearman Saddle at left. Route from Spearman to the summit marked

Sunset clouds over Mt Combatant from our camp @ 12,000ft - August 1989

Gary Kuehn - one last look at Waddington from 'Camp 47' on the north side of the Tiedemann Glacier

belaying at bergschrund below summit tower

Sunset rap on the way down to Rainy Knob

Our ride leaving 'Camp 47' - a fine grassy knoll on the north side of the Tiedemann Glacier. Asperity and Serra peaks in the background. August 1989

Rappel from summit with Rainy Knob far below

Gary and Dale moving into the Bravo Glacier maze - Aug 1989. We definitely benefited from following the path of the Seattle group who we shared the summit with the next day.

Gary Kuehn and Dale Navish leaving Rainy Knob at the beginning of the best weather window of our two week visit. August 1989

Mt. Waddington, Bravo Glacier Route

Sunrise view of the Tooth and the main peak of Mt Waddington from our high camp.

View of the SE Chimneys during evening rappel. Yellow = normal route (exit left after second chockstone, cross back right above). Red = Right hand variation (exit right below first chockstone; best option when dry). Green = direct exit (5.8 or A0). Purple

Gary Kuehn rapping to the Notch. From there we continued down the shadowed terrain to the left. One overhanging rap at the end put us safely on the glacier and avoided all the traverse terrain we'd traveled on the way up.

High Camp below the Tooth. My old Super Guides were like rocks in the morning. The boys both had plastic boots.

Gary and Dale on the Bravo Glacier late in the day. We decided to not bivy up high and while the snow was soft, it wasn't too bad so we kept going all night until reaching Rainy Knob and dry ground under clear skies and a helpful moon.

Dale Navish and friends on the summit of Mt Waddington on a perfect day in August 1989

Dale and Gary at Rainy Knob

about halfway up the SE chimney route

Gary and Dale at the 'crux' belay. Dry conditions made for reasonably straightforward climbing in the chimneys.

Traversing a serac barrier on the Cauldron headwall

Bravo Glacier, Mount Waddington<br>
contour interval: 40 meters<br>
one kilometer grid<br>
<br>
Yellow - Bravo Glacier Route

The Tooth traverse ledges, one pitch below the Notch

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