Squaw Peak from Y Mountain

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Kyhv Peak > [Redacted] (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)

Squaw Peak from Y Mountain

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Totally bomber pro from one of my early forays onto Squaw Peak.

Nice shade right before the 12th pitch

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5.0 from 8 votes

Everett Bergeson

Nov 27, 2020

“Squaw Peak from Y Mountain”

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Nearby Photos

Topo with some retreat options marked.

Totally bomber pro from one of my early forays onto Squaw Peak.

Squaw Peak from Y Mountain

Nice shade right before the 12th pitch

Me topping out at the summit. Too stoked to get my shoes off.

Jack Powers Mid route checking out the bivy cave at about 2AM!

Summit photo with Rollin

Cool view of pitches 3-8

Modified topo. My opinions from 3 ascents, adjusted ratings, clarified descriptions & directions. Print & climb with it in your pocket.

Thomas Gappmayer enjoying the belay before pitch 16.

A view of Guy at the cave with another group headed up pitch 12.

The "crux" pitch 14 linked into 15 (although I felt a couple other pitches were perhaps more technical than pitch 14).

Pitches 3-8. Couple of parties are visible at the top of pitch 6.

Near the top - Pitch 22 of Squawstruck

Diving Board, a short walk west from top of Pitch 8

Approach beta: wait till after Pa's Mother to turn left at the Boulder in red, then [roughly] follow the pink line up to P1 (blue line)

Flapper 1 of 5 on this climb. Bring your A-game, bring motivation, bring ibuprofen, and BRING TAPE!
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*Note that it can also come in handy if your old shoes randomly decide to rip in half with 12 pitches to go...

Pitch two. Fun blocky climbing to a corner which demands good footwork.

Jack getting airy on Pitch 20(?)

Map of the descent trail.

Tristan after the leap of faith headed up pitch 2.

Tristan moving up to the rest before the hard crux of pitch 14. This was the high point on our FA attempt.

The cave/mine at the base of pitch 12 is a great place to have lunch in the shade.

Thomas Gappmayer at the belay on top of pitch 22. Success!

Alexis Crellin after Pitch 14 roof.

My favorite pitch in the first 8: Frosted Flakes. Just look at how white the limestone is! And it is very solid with great holds and a fantastic roof with a perfect jug for pulling.

Joshua Brown and his friend Ian? posting up on the diving board

Brennan sending the thin Pitch 19

Tristan and Thomas on pitch 16, taken from the trail.

cant remember what pitch this was, not far from the summit though. did this november 4th of 2023 and was perfect climbing conditions. about 15 hours car to car and 13 hours on the wall

Eric E. on the 14th corner pitch- Sept 2015

The view from the top of pitch 1 to the top of pitch 2.

Bolt missing hanger on pitch 22.

3AM top-out!
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There are several different walls on this route. Even though we studied the topo beforehand, we got lost looking for the summit wall at night (it's much further to the right than I thought). Bring headlamps and be ready to climb at night!

View from the top

Best thing I've done in the 4 times I've done this route: write down the links with their bolt counts and lengths on my phone so I didn't have to constantly open my phone or unfold my topo.

Approach beta pic.

Can't miss the diving board atop pitch 8, make sure to wave to the hikers

Starting up pitch one.

squawstruck poster born from quarentine boredom

Beginning the last few pitches on the uppermost headwall.

Leading the 8th pitch of squawstruck

Rachel linking pitch 14 (5.11-) and pitch 15 (5.10b) into a 110ft pitch. Sept 20, 2013

Kip working towards the cruxy section

Making our way across one of the final ledges between walls of the climb

Tristan and Thomas on pitch 16, taken from the trail (with a bit more zoom than the last photo).

A busy day on Squawstruck.

Start of pitch 3. This shows the walk between the top of two and the start of 3.

Me on pitch 1. Dec 2008.

Looking back across the leap of faith to Christian belaying from the pitch 1 tower.

Bryce having fun on Squawstruck

Thomas on pitch 2. September 2010.

Christian Burrell on pitch 4. Dec 2008.

Late night Summit 9/2015

Eric leading out of the cave pitch

Me on pitch 3. Dec 2008.

Christian Burrell coiling the rope on top of pitch 11. Sep 2010. Provo Peak (11,068') is in the background.

Pitch one of the behemoth

Cave before start of pitch 12

Starting up the crux pitch

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