Pete leading the "Jungle Pitch"

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Pete leading the "Jungle Pitch"

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Pete moving through the crux of pitch 10

Bob Ordner belaying Pete on pitch 6 on the generous belay ledge above pitch 5.

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Jeff Mergler

Oct 27, 2020

“Pete leading the "Jungle Pitch"”

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Nearby Photos

Chase, Eddy and Amy surveying the route at the base of pitch 1.

White Granite slab pitch 13-14.

Matthew leading pitch 10, sun in his eyes!

Matthew & Amy preparing for the rappel. The dead tree marks the top of the climb.

Amy, psyched to be rappelling! Chase and I walked off after landing at the top of pitch 5 (3 hours total for the descent). Amy and Eddy did not have approach shoes with them, so continued rappelling and took 3.5 hours to get back to the base of the climb.

Chase leading pitch 6. He linked 6 & 7 with a 60m rope (as we did numerous other pitches above). Recommend skipping or back cleaning draws and using some alpine draws to avoid rope drag.

Chase at a belay station on the slab of the finishing pitches. Pitch 14-ish.

Chase crossing the creek. The approach is short (30min or less), and well marked w/cairns.

Matthew soloing near bottom of pitch 3.

Absolute specimen of a bolt on P3. i imagine this was caused by the low angle nature of this part of the climb resulting in massive weight of snow pushing down on it during winter. kinda gnarly! an exception amongst mostly excellent bolts.

fairly rough image of the rock structure with approximate route (to my knowledge) drawn over in red. green line denotes the belay move from the big tree ledge atop P5 to the beginning of P6.

Approach trail drawn on satellite imagery

About halfway up the slabs

Very thin finger crack gets you up the seam on pitch 10

You can walk down this gully by doing a single rap off a tree near the top of p14, if you aren't excited about rapping.

Scenery from top of the route

Matthew soloing the last bit of the beginning slab, pitches 1-5.

Pete leading pitch 10, Bob belaying.

Pete moving through the crux of pitch 10

Pete leading the "Jungle Pitch"

Bob Ordner belaying Pete on pitch 6 on the generous belay ledge above pitch 5.

Pete leading pitch 6, the first significant "face pitch" after 5 moderate slab pitches.

Finishing up the route on the solar eclipse.

Start of pitch 7.

Chase following on pitch 8. Eddy on the belay ledge below.

Troy starting traverse on Pitch 6. This is where real climbing begins

Flakes on crux pitch 10, very thin smear traverse between flakes

Beginning the long rappelling. Allow several hours to get down

Just "hanging out" at the belay ledge for pitch 10 with Priest Lake in the distance

Jam crack on pitch 12

Incredible views of Lion's Head valley and Priest Lake from the top of pitch 9

The last rap off the slabs on doubled ropes. Good to be down!

Sitting on upper slabs simul climbing

Looking up from the start of the route.

In This Photo

Pete S.

Unknown Hometown