December 30th 1999 at around 3am an apartment sized serac collapses while we were luckily camped safely behind a small rock outcrop at around 10,600 ft. Ice blocks from fist size to VW sized were littered all down the Turtle snowfield and onto the glacier

All Locations > Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Southwest Cascades > Mt Rainier NP > Mt Rainier > Kautz Glacier (WI2-3)

December 30th 1999 at around 3am an apartment sized serac collapses while we were luckily camped safely behind a small rock outcrop at around 10,600 ft. Ice blocks from fist size to VW sized were littered all down the Turtle snowfield and onto the glacier

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Pitch 2 and seracs of the Kautz Glacier. Mark on the right moving his belay to the left upon noticing a loose and dangerous serac overhead; a serac that would break and roll down the glacier no more than 5 minutes after this photo was taken (6/30/2021).

Willie Webster and team approaching the Ice Chute, rock step behind above the tents.

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Mike Preiss

Sep 26, 2020

“December 30th 1999 at around 3am an apartment sized serac collapses while we were luckily camped safely behind a small rock outcrop at around 10,600 ft. Ice blocks from fist size to VW sized were littered all down the Turtle snowfield and onto the glacier”

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Nearby Photos

Morning view from the ramp towards Mt. Adams. June 2005.

Mount Rainier, Kautz Glacier. Pat coming up to Camp Hazard. June, 2005.

Nearing Point Success, high on the Kautz Glacier.

Crossing a endless bottom Crevasse in the snowfield near the top

Looking down the Kautz Glacier Route from Halfway up the steep ice pitch section.

Climbing the ramp. I was struggling with the pickets and a rope so the camera is tilted. In reality the slope is more gradual. The photo makes it look like the Eiger.

A Lenticular cloud seen after topping out the Kautz Ice Chutes

High camp, just below Camp Hazard (July 3, 2017)

Good view of the route... Wilson Glacier and The Turtle, along with upper mountain

Wouldn't be Rainier without a snow bridge

Traverse under seracs following rock step, lower Kautz ice chute seen in distance - July 2019 (photo: Erick T.)

Early morning on the Kautz before it gets steep

Top of the ice step pitches on Kautz

Lower Nisqually Glacier (traverse to Wilson Gully) - July 2019

This was our camp, below camp hazard.

Camp before summit night.

Mark and Tyler climbing Kautz June 2018

Looking down from camp hazard towards Mt. Adams. July 2007

Looking down the Turtle with Kautz Ridge below and Mt. Adams on the horizon. June '05.

camping spot above the Turtle

Camp at the Castle on the Kautz

Approach below Nisqually

on the turtle snowfield

Jake, walking onto the Kautz glacier at sunrise

An Alpine Ascents International climbing team approaching the upper ice chute of the Kautz Glacier.

1 pitch of actual ice climbing on the route during our climb. July '17, about 1am.

looking down pitch 2

Sitting east of the Wapowety Cleaver hiding from the wind, having just left the top of the Kautz Glacier.

On the second step in the Ice Chute in summer conditions.

Sunrise just above the ice steps

Camp Hazard with Kautz ice cliffs in the background.

Late-season (September 1st) ascent of the Kautz, taken from the top of P1. Climbers in the bottom right. Adams, Hood, and Saint Helens visibile.

Final push to summit

Short cut to the summit through a icefall. We cut through this icefall and did not have to climb to the top of Point Success. It made the climb a bit more adventurous at the top

Descending the DC (July 6, 2017)

Me leading the crux

Blake, Shawn and John climbing the upper ice chute on the Kautz Glacier.

Eric and I on the second step

Resting between the two Ice Steps - July 2019

Approaching the crux pitches

Many crevasses near the top

Kautz Ice Chute - technical part of the route

first pitch

Pitch 2 and seracs of the Kautz Glacier. Mark on the right moving his belay to the left upon noticing a loose and dangerous serac overhead; a serac that would break and roll down the glacier no more than 5 minutes after this photo was taken (6/30/2021).

December 30th 1999 at around 3am an apartment sized serac collapses while we were luckily camped safely behind a small rock outcrop at around 10,600 ft. Ice blocks from fist size to VW sized were littered all down the Turtle snowfield and onto the glacier

Willie Webster and team approaching the Ice Chute, rock step behind above the tents.

On belay in the Ice Chute!

Upper Nisqually Glacier

Upper Nisqually from the Wapowety Cleaver

Dallas Glass, leading one of the pitches on the 2nd step in the Ice Chute

Climber on the upper ice pitch of the Kautz ice Chute - July 2019

The june 2009 colorado team. Thanks again Ryan and Bryan the two rangers we got to climb with. Fun times

down the Kautz ice chute after a dual solo success.

Just past the rock step (July 10 2022)

Looking down the Ice Chute, camp is on the left right below the Rock Step

Camp Hazard!

Descending the Ice Chute after a long day

Porter McMichael getting it in the second step of the Ice Chute

Getting out of the Ice chute onto the Upper Kautz Glacier

Around the Kautz ice cliffs in early condition

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