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All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Allen's Ridge Area > Cavity Chimney (5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a)
Brian smoking the slab section that I was happy to avoid leading! It's not too hard, but just long enough without gear and not the best fall potential.
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This was a FUN hand traverse!
Brian finding a third way to climb this section: à Cheval!
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Mark Thomas
Sep 4, 2020
“Brian smoking the slab section that I was happy to avoid leading! It's not too hard, but just long enough without gear and not the best fall potential.”  

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This was a FUN hand traverse!
Brian smoking the slab section that I was happy to avoid leading! It's not too hard, but just long enough without gear and not the best fall potential.
Brian finding a third way to climb this section: à Cheval!
Or you can be brave and walk the offset edge.
Ella reaching the chockstone. She got tired and fell here, and even with gear in the chockstone the overhand was enough that on TR she fell out and pendulumed over the lip! She lost a lot of energy taking more hangs getting over the chockstone since each
Ella on the final easy wide part, just before the fun finish.
Ella rotating around and entering the squeeze, looking at what is ahead.
View of the chockstone and top of the route from where I belayed by the piton.
The crack on top. The split crosses the entire slab and forms 'Steep & Cheap' where the slab drops into the trees. It is wide all the way, pinching down to #4 C4s near the lip. From a ways away this looks like a splitter fist crack.
No pro until the chockstone and the leaning flare wants to spit you out. Reach your right leg deep inside and torque it like crazy to hold yourself in there. You can see an old hex w/ grab cord left in the stone. It was tempting, but I managed to avoid us
The route, seen from the approach.
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