Flying Buttress, August 16, 2020.

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Flying Buttress, August 16, 2020.

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The nice 1-inch crack on pitch 3 with the 5.9+ roof above.

A route overlay of Meeker's Flying Buttress.

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Kris Gorny

Aug 22, 2020

“Flying Buttress, August 16, 2020.”

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Nearby Photos

Max and Burt on the approach to the Flying Buttress

Buttress glowing. We found a descent path down right-side of this photo vaguely marked with cairns

The route follows the left side of the ridge. Almost exactly where the sun/shadow line is!

A shot of unknown climbers topped out on Flying Buttress, Thursday, June 21st, 2012, taken from the east side of the knife-edge ridge above. A cool photo opportunity!

A photo of P3 after the left variation fell off. The right side variation goes at 9/10a-ish.

Allison Variation, 5.9<br>
FDA: Dean Allison and Guy Humphrey<br>
Gear: gear to 1 inch<br>
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This climb is not documented anywhere, and we saw no signs of climbers on the line. This is a good line if you prefer finger cracks to chimneys and you are not up for the 5.10 cracks on the main face. The pitch can also be used to make a four pitch route that has 5.9 climbing on each pitch. The climbing is as good or better than the upper 5.9 pitches.<br>
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The climb starts to the left of the 5.8 P1 variation in a sharp layback finger crack. About halfway up the left-facing dihedral, the crack starts to disappear and the gear looks like it goes with it. There is good gear to be found, but you will need to look for it. The top of the dihedral is capped by a small roof. It forces you out on face to the right with a hidden line of holds that keeps it at 5.9. This exciting tarverse ends at a belay below the 2nd 5.9 pitch variation. Fun stuff!<br>

10a dihedral of pitch 5 (direct variation).

I'm pretty certain that this block is no longer there.

The nice 1-inch crack on pitch 3 with the 5.9+ roof above.

Flying Buttress, August 16, 2020.

A route overlay of Meeker's Flying Buttress.

New route beta:
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Green: Class 4 to the base.
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P1 red 5.10c/d thin seam, slab feet, ledge below.
<br>
P2 purple: 5.9 fun.
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P3-4 bright red/; 5.10b sketch loose traverse.
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P5 blue: 5.8 fun easy finish.
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Green: Class 4 down.

Tasty belay ledge atop pitch 2.

A route overlay for Upper Flying Buttress.

As viewed from Mt. Lady Washington.

Mike Elges leading the .10c variation. A must do if you climb the grade!

Matt rounds the corner on pitch 3. Picture taken from just past the big roof.

Tony Bubb approaching the 5.9 roof on P3 of the Flying Buttress of Mt Meeker. Photo by Joseffa Meir

Douglas heading up the crux pitch. Carry a #3 cam, and pull the juggy, but airy roof. So much fun!

Climbers mid-route on The Flying Buttress on Mt Meeker.

Flying Buttress early morning from Stettner's Ledges approach.

Looking up at the route. You can simul-climb the first 200 feet or so up the slabs, around the corner, until you feel the need....

Descent via The Loft (if you go to the summit of Meeker).

Matt at the second belay.

Matt seconds the first pitch.

Chillin out on the flyin buttress.

a view from the 2nd pitch. "eric the rep" on belay.

View of the Flying Buttress and the start of Dream Weaver.

Bring sunscreen. Max and I improvising belays high on Flying Buttress

Flying Buttress belay ledge.

I'm sure I'm off route, but I couldn't resist! This crack is so PINK!

Tony Bubb on the saddle traverse above P6 of the Flying Buttress of Mt Meeker. Photo by Joseffa Meir

Flying Buttress from the distance

Greg Williams leading p2 of Flying Buttress.

The final 3rd/4th scramble to the summit of Meeker on the Upper Flying Buttress.

Upper Buttress, the way we went. I don't think this fits the guidebook description, but it worked well and was good climbing, ~10a.

Flying Buttress of Mt. Meeker (upper left) in morning light. Ship's Prow is on the right.

Brent Butler on an undocumented 5.10b variation to Flying Buttress.

Approaching the Flying Buttress from the base side in early alpine season. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.

04 July 2009.

Looking back on the initial climb of Flying Butress (5.9 or harder) on Mt Meeker from above the 6th pitch. 2 more pitches to the summit ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.

Douglas following....coming off the top of Flying Buttress. Wild to hear people on the actual summit of Meeker.

Joseffa Meir leads another clean pitch on the Flying Buttress of Mt. Meeker. Photo by Tony Bubb

Douglas finishing up the pitch.

5.8 handcrack on pitch 2 (direct variation).

The Flying Buttress in afternoon light on the way back down from Meeker. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.

Start of pitch 4.

Douglas hiking up to Flying Buttress! Around the 4th of July 2008.

Upper Buttress, the way we went. I don't think this fits the guidebook description, but it worked well and was good climbing, ~10a.

Tony Bubb starting the first vertical Pitch of Flying Buttress on Meeker. Photo by Joseffa Meir

Looking down at the lower Flying Buttress from the upper pitches. The descent from the lower Flying Buttress is a scramble down the rock slopes on the left in this photo.

At the start of the buttress.

Jon high on Flying Buttress. Not sure exactly where, we found route finding to be pretty difficult.

Flying Buttress is the prominent fin in the center of the photo.

Almost there!

Sunshine on the buttress.

Tough to find a suitable rock to keep the marmots out.

V-slot chimney on pitch 1 (left variation).

5.9 corner on pitch 2 (left variation).

Looking down, end of maybe the second pitch.