This is the corner before the corner that leads this the traverse. The photographer's partner had just finished the traverse and kindly snapped a picture of me.

All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Pinkham / P… > 05. Huntington… > Northeast Ridge of th… (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

This is the corner before the corner that leads this the traverse. The photographer's partner had just finished the traverse and kindly snapped a picture of me.

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end of the fairy tale traverse

The start of pitch 1 is just few minutes off from the bottom of the steep slab on the Huntington Ravine trail. The blue arrow assumes an approach "from the top", i.e. having parked the car on Mt Washigton autoroad and walked down Huntington Ravine trail

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3.5 from 2 votes

Foster Boone

Aug 3, 2020

“This is the corner before the corner that leads this the traverse. The photographer's partner had just finished the traverse and kindly snapped a picture of me.”

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Nearby Photos

Matt Bowman on the Fairy Tale Traverse pitch. © Brent Doscher Photography, 2017

Greg Petrics and Walter Howe photo of the Allis Chimney : http://www.famousinternetskiers.com/the-pinnacle-butt-rest/2/

The Fairy Tale Traverse variation of the last pitch - a must do!

Location/detail of pitches 3 and 6.

The awesome "Fairy Tale Traverse." Super exposed!

Fairy Tale Traverse from the Huntington Ravine Trail

TOPO map of the first 4 of the 7 pitches seen hiking up from the "bottom"-approach (i.e. from the AMC Pinkham Notch "camp")

The approach

This is the correct angle of the cover page photo. Still a spectacular position. From Aug 2012.

First pitches

Looking up at the 5.8 variation. At least 5 old pins in there.

Winter Pinnacle

The initial moves to get into the Chimney are very committing, above me the chimney narrows and there is a chockstone. Bring a LONG sling. mine was too short to sling it and I had to run it out. I recommend a backpack leash so you can dangle it, its tight

Mia cruising the traverse, loving every second!

Looking up from the "huge" (3mx3m) belay toward the scramble + steep step passage of pitch 6

Beginning the traverse

Fairy-tale traverse and final corner. Super fun climbing on great rock.

Exposure is nuts.

This is the line we took to get to the chimney. Felt like 5.8 moves

Jeff after completing the final technical (easy) moves of pitch 6, just before the fairytale traverse, right before the sun sets.

Jeff following the 3rd pitch

Lost on P1 Peter Anania and Phil Shenett did this variation, an airy 5.8 said Pete..

Goes by feet too!

The route from Huntington Ravine Trail.

Winter Pinnacle

This is where you want to approach the Fairy Tale from, at the top of the 5.6 step, look for a place you can sneak around the ridge to the right, this takes you here. Very easy to miss.

Looking "climber-LEFT" toward the downclimb from the top-anchor of the crux-corner pitch 3. The super-awesome photo at https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118803435 by Patrics & Howe blended with the historic photo by Allis had me a bit confused before

Cruz pitch. Felt a little soft for grade

The Fairy Tale Traverse from above

end of the fairy tale traverse

This is the corner before the corner that leads this the traverse. The photographer's partner had just finished the traverse and kindly snapped a picture of me.

The start of pitch 1 is just few minutes off from the bottom of the steep slab on the Huntington Ravine trail. The blue arrow assumes an approach "from the top", i.e. having parked the car on Mt Washigton autoroad and walked down Huntington Ravine trail

Free Solo Front Entrance

Looking down the slippery corner/awkward mantel pitch,. Belay on small gear.

J. Stewart on Pinnacle Buttress' "Fairyland Traverse."

2nd pitch

The slightly easier corner at the start of pitch 2 (or at the end of pitch 1 according to other descriptions), not to be confused with the "similar looking" but harder corner at the start of pitch 3 shown in many other posted pictures,.

Looking down over the ridge.

A successful crew at the summit

A morning lap in the fall on Pinnacle

As others have noted, the 5.8 variation is easy to navigate, just follow the pins! They actually don't look sooo bad.

in all it's glory

Pitch 3

The enormous pitch 5 belay ledge

Doug popping out of the 5.7 Chimney.

From the parking lot near the top of the autoroad one cannot miss the 2m high cairns on the approach (Huntington Ravine trail).

The Pinnacle in late October.

From the top of route it is just 10min walkoff to the traversing Alpine Garden trail. The Huntington Ravine trail will then be 5min on the right.

The top

The best 5.4 pitch in New Hampshire.... maybe the country.

The Northeast Ridge of the Pinnacle

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