Added P3 rap anchor to avoid unnecessary down-scramble exposure. With a 60m rope you can't make it from summit to the easier ground at the start of P3 (a couple ledges above the rap station at top of P2) but with a 70m you might.

All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > Snoqualmie Pass… > Tooth > Summer-Fall (rock) > S Face (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Added P3 rap anchor to avoid unnecessary down-scramble exposure. With a 60m rope you can't make it from summit to the easier ground at the start of P3 (a couple ledges above the rap station at top of P2) but with a 70m you might.

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South Face of The Tooth 3/16/2019. Face gets enough sun that even during a winter ascent its got dry rock.
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Rock moves are dry, but patches of snow and lots of snow on summit makes having an ice axe or tool useful towards end of route and summit.

Bret on the last move before the summit

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2.8 from 4 votes

K Go

Jun 30, 2020

“Added P3 rap anchor to avoid unnecessary down-scramble exposure. With a 60m rope you can't make it from summit to the easier ground at the start of P3 (a couple ledges above the rap station at top of P2) but with a 70m you might.”

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Nearby Photos

Rappelling south face winter 1991

Gabe near the top of p3

winter ascent south face 1991

The south face as seen from the Denny Creek Trail.

View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 viewed from the base.

Final pitch

The summit rappel anchor

South Face of The Tooth 3/16/2019. Face gets enough sun that even during a winter ascent its got dry rock.
<br>

<br>
Rock moves are dry, but patches of snow and lots of snow on summit makes having an ice axe or tool useful towards end of route and summit.

Added P3 rap anchor to avoid unnecessary down-scramble exposure. With a 60m rope you can't make it from summit to the easier ground at the start of P3 (a couple ledges above the rap station at top of P2) but with a 70m you might.

Bret on the last move before the summit

South face is the left side of the Tooth in this photo.

leading up the second pitch - possibly the best moves on the climb

Leif on the south face of the tooth, July 2022.

Rappelling out of the east notch after getting rained/snowed out

Don Preiss winter ascent south face toof 1991

South Face route as I remember it

Slung block for 2nd "rap station" for direct descent from Pineapple pass. Cord only held on by tiny, razor sharp nub on back of boulder, otherwise it would slide off. Did not use, and do not recommend. Used slung tree to the north of the gully instead.

starting the link up of the first two pitches

The Tooth

Early Morning view of The Tooth in January. South face route goes up left side of silhouette more or less.

Pitch 4

Mason coming down from Pineapple Pass 1-21-13

starting 2nd pitch on west side start to south face winter 1991

west side start to the south face winter 1991

Rappelling the south face in winter 1991

Nice summit views

Half-way up third pitch (looking down).

Ladies climbing on Jun 21, here's a picture of one of ya

3rd pitch

S Face in early January. Snowpack was about 60% of average

Smoky view of Snow Lake from the fires in the Great White North.

The Second Pitch of the South Face 5.4

Was up at Pineapple Pass in the winter, and saw that there's a pretty clear view of the whole route. Yellow line is the general route. Note that the very bottom of the route is just hidden behind one of the sub-peaks.

Mason following second pitch of South Face 5.4 in Mid January 2013

Mason on the Third Pitch of South Face 5.4

Sam coming up P 1

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