Added P3 rap anchor to avoid unnecessary down-scramble exposure. With a 60m rope you can't make it from summit to the easier ground at the start of P3 (a couple ledges above the rap station at top of P2) but with a 70m you might.

All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > Snoqualmie Pass… > Tooth > Summer-Fall (rock) > S Face (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Added P3 rap anchor to avoid unnecessary down-scramble exposure. With a 60m rope you can't make it from summit to the easier ground at the start of P3 (a couple ledges above the rap station at top of P2) but with a 70m you might.

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View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 viewed from the base.

Rappelling out of the east notch after getting rained/snowed out

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K Go

Jun 30, 2020

“Added P3 rap anchor to avoid unnecessary down-scramble exposure. With a 60m rope you can't make it from summit to the easier ground at the start of P3 (a couple ledges above the rap station at top of P2) but with a 70m you might.”

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Nearby Photos

Gabe near the top of p3

Rappelling south face winter 1991

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The summit rappel anchor

Pitch 4

Bret on the last move before the summit

View of the South Face Route on The Tooth 5.4 viewed from the base.

Added P3 rap anchor to avoid unnecessary down-scramble exposure. With a 60m rope you can't make it from summit to the easier ground at the start of P3 (a couple ledges above the rap station at top of P2) but with a 70m you might.

Rappelling out of the east notch after getting rained/snowed out

leading up the second pitch - possibly the best moves on the climb

Don Preiss winter ascent south face toof 1991

South face is the left side of the Tooth in this photo.

Slung block for 2nd "rap station" for direct descent from Pineapple pass. Cord only held on by tiny, razor sharp nub on back of boulder, otherwise it would slide off. Did not use, and do not recommend. Used slung tree to the north of the gully instead.

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Early Morning view of The Tooth in January. South face route goes up left side of silhouette more or less.

Mason coming down from Pineapple Pass 1-21-13

South Face of The Tooth 3/16/2019. Face gets enough sun that even during a winter ascent its got dry rock.
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Rock moves are dry, but patches of snow and lots of snow on summit makes having an ice axe or tool useful towards end of route and summit.

The Tooth

starting 2nd pitch on west side start to south face winter 1991

Nice summit views

west side start to the south face winter 1991

Rappelling the south face in winter 1991

South Face route as I remember it

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Ladies climbing on Jun 21, here's a picture of one of ya

Mason on the Third Pitch of South Face 5.4

Mason following second pitch of South Face 5.4 in Mid January 2013

The Second Pitch of the South Face 5.4

Sam coming up P 1

Smoky view of Snow Lake from the fires in the Great White North.

3rd pitch