Approach from the West staying near the creek somewhat. This photo ~30 mins from the base

All Locations > California > High Sierra > 12 - Kearsarge… > Charlotte Dome > S Face (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Approach from the West staying near the creek somewhat. This photo ~30 mins from the base

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Summit photo showing the rack we used. c3s, .3-#3, single set of nuts, 10 alpine draws, 2 cordelettes.

Leading the Slot, 9-11-08. Photo by René Renteria.

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5.0 from 2 votes

Andrew E

Jun 29, 2020

“Approach from the West staying near the creek somewhat. This photo ~30 mins from the base”

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Nearby Photos

Here is my best estimate of the route we followed. Photo taken from campsite along Bubs Creek

Dawn over Mount Brewer, North Guard, & Mount Francis Farquhar seen from Charlotte Dome.

Summit photo showing the rack we used. c3s, .3-#3, single set of nuts, 10 alpine draws, 2 cordelettes.

Approach from the West staying near the creek somewhat. This photo ~30 mins from the base

Leading the Slot, 9-11-08. Photo by René Renteria.

Topo of the route we took in August 1992.

moon over Charlotte Dome

Peter Green, Rich Henke and Nancy Jensen returning from our winter ascent, 1992.

A very cool foursome at the top of the 9th pitch.

On the lower face in August of 1983 with Miguel Carmona belaying. With Permission of Bob Lindgren We all are still friends and partners after all these years.

Peter Green on the summit of Charlotte Dome after climbing the South Face in winter. March 1992

Alois on the Ski/Climb combo in winter of 1992. Peter Green photo.

Western approach up Bubb's creek. There was plenty of carins and very little bushwacking the way we took. DM me if you'd like a gpx track of the approach.

Approaching the South Face of Charlotte Dome.

View of Charlotte Dome.

Mariann near the top of Charlotte Dome

Melody Wong on the ledge before pitch 7 in the description.

Looking up Pitch 1 from the base of the route. The pitch ends at the obvious tree in the sun.

South face
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P10 The Upper Ritz-Carlton sofa belay
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Don't miss cocktail hour!
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Photo by: Steven Lee

Belay at the top of P10, directly below the beautiful orange face of P11.

Melody leading pitch 4, with the Slot up and to her right.

Melody pauses high above Bubbs Creek.

Finishing up the first 5.8 pitch.

Looking up at the maze of features on the south face of Charlotte Dome.

From the base of the climb. p1 tree center of the photo.

Marlene on the awesome pedestal summit block of Charlotte Dome.

Belay station at the top of the slot pitch

Alpenglow on Charlotte Dome. <br>
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Photo: Corey Gargano

Eriko leading the super fun furrows pitch.

Topping out on the South Face. Go around the westside of the summit block and down it's backside to descend.

The Furrows (Pitch 10).

Pitch 8 (the second 5.8 pitch).

The Slot (the first 5.8 pitch).

BroccoliRabe on the pitch before the Slot, with the South Face of the dome stretching above him.
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Taken from an intermediate belay in the middle of P4.

Looking down at one of the early pitches, around pitch 3 (depending on how you link them).

Morning sunrise of Mt Farquhar from Charlotte dome

If approaching West on Bubbs creek, this is the cairn for the climber's trail

Somewhere close to the top

charlotte dome summit with cutting-edge descent nutrition

A little more route-finding on P7 to establish beneath P8, but its kinda obvious since the dike runs out here.

Billy coming up supertopo pitch 8 on the South Face

Mariann on the South Face

Hiking in from the East. Leaving the TH at midnight made for a great sunrise at perfect timing

Start of Pitch 1

Great climbing on Charlotte Dome

The slot- pitch 6

Nathan groovin' up the Furrows Pitch. P10. <br>
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Photo: Corey Gargano

The 'runout' P9 actually had a lot more gear and features than I expected.

last stroll to the unusual summit block

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