The money pitch! (p2) 120 ft of amazing jamming

All Locations > California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (b) N Face > El Whampo (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

The money pitch! (p2) 120 ft of amazing jamming

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John Reinig Seconding money pitch El Wampo!

Nathan Fitzhugh on pitch one almost to the belay.

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Jasen Koerner

May 17, 2020

“The money pitch! (p2) 120 ft of amazing jamming”

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Nearby Photos

Adam testing out the quality of the hand jams on P2.

Traverse move then reaching up for the finger crack. Crack protects with small gear (blue alien) or nuts.

Here is the route we took on pitch 3 (or 4 if you count approach pitch). Once you reach the tree below the arch, traverse across slab (underclinging) to the obvious depression.

El Wampo mixed!!! WI3 M3...

This is a 3rd pitch Variation, I found it to be quite enjoyable, but seldom traveled.

The Badger having a good time

First two pitches of El Whampo.

Money Pitch

The Badger at Pitch 2, great climbing

Looking up at El Whampo p2.

Photo topo of El Whampo at Tahquitz. Editable files and CC licensing info at github.com/bcrowell/tahquitz_photography

2nd pitch, lovely long crack

P2 is one of the best 5.7 cracks around. Very fun lead!

The missing feature in Vogel/Gaines topo for p3 routefinding is the undercling I've drawn in here.

Looking down from about halfway up P2, at a resting alcove (to the right of the main crack) at Ralph and Sandra at the P1 belay.

Fixed pin on P4 of El Whampo

P3 options, climber here is on the El Grandote option, climbed past two old bolts.

Kirk making the traverse from the first belay to the base of the awesome splitter on P2 of El Whampo

John Reinig Seconding money pitch El Wampo!

The money pitch! (p2) 120 ft of amazing jamming

Nathan Fitzhugh on pitch one almost to the belay.

Sherman Lam near the top of the second pitch. This gives a good sense of the steepness.

Looking down from the top of the first Pitch of El Whampo

Graham at the belay of the second pitch

Looking up from the belay after the 5.7 thin seam pitch. Continue under the arch until an obvious notch to the 4th belay, one long 5.easy pitch after that. I climbed along the right edge of this pic. The exit is slightly out of view here.

Justin jamming on Pitch 2 of El Whampo.

Agina Sedler leading pitch two. Great jams.

Unknown climbers on pitch two of El Whampo

Good view on 2nd pitch

After a group on West Lark pulled down a large rock this guy came to investigate. Thankfully I don't think anyone was hurt.

working up the money pitch

rap rings at top of p1

Nathan Fitzhugh on pitch one.

Top of pitch two before traversing to the anchor.

Sandra approaching the end of P2, then moving (climber's) right and down to the belay.

Suicide Rock from north face trail. Had to stop to snap a pic

Nathan Fitzhugh coming up pitch two.

looking up from the top of p2

North Gulley Descent

Nathan Fitzhugh takes a break on some solid jams.

Tim Kearns, on the great second pitch of El Whampo

looking up at p5 of left variation. End at large dead tree. Staying out of the gulley to your right keeps the end fun and in the 5.7 range

looking up at p4 of the left variation. Start on obvious crack just to left of the frame then work back up and right on a nice layback crack.

Ralph "swimming" the P2 perfect hand jams

Agina Sedler leading pitch two. Such a fun crack.

Topo, with El Grandote start.

Topo

Suicide Rock from the top of El Whampo

Agina Sedler leading pitch two. Such a fun crack.

Climbing topo for El Whampo at Tahquitz. The most up to date version of this topo is always available at https://bitbucket.org/ben-crowell/tahquitz
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looking back at the final pitch (p5) of the left variation. After the obvious crack you work up and to the climbers right past 15' of face climbing and then pull up over 5' ledge on good holds. Come back to the dead tree in the last 20'

On P3, while looking up and left on the slab, these two crappy bolts are up near the mini right facing dihedral (el grandote)

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