I leapfrogged the VG 9 and VG 12 a LONG ways (1/3 of the climb). The VG 12 was pretty lousy for most of it - I think having a #6 C4 or two would have been better. You can see the detached block & column below.

All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Arches NP > La Sal Mtn View… > Sand Fears (5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c)

I leapfrogged the VG 9 and VG 12 a LONG ways (1/3 of the climb). The VG 12 was pretty lousy for most of it - I think having a #6 C4 or two would have been better. You can see the detached block & column below.

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The wide sections of the route. Sand Tears ends at the large ledge on the left after the easy OW warmup. Climbing through the crescent crack above was interesting... would have been nicer if it weren't so sandy and friable!

Beginning up Sand Fears proper from the top of Sand Tears. This was a fun and straightforward 6" crack, although it was pretty slippery from all of the sand lining the walls.

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Mark Thomas

Dec 7, 2019

“I leapfrogged the VG 9 and VG 12 a LONG ways (1/3 of the climb). The VG 12 was pretty lousy for most of it - I think having a #6 C4 or two would have been better. You can see the detached block & column below.”

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Nearby Photos

Looking down as I start into the crux. I have a piece just below and just above the detached block. Careful!

In retrospect, I should have either brought more than 2 #6 C4s on this trip, or pushed the first one farther to save the other one for the upper third!

The column, the detached block, and the crux above.

Routes seen head on.

Brian completing the mantle exit to escape the overhanging offwidth... and discovering the source of ALL OF THAT SAND!

Brian on the summit of "Goofy's Head", with the downclimb and traverse in between.

Vintage lone drilled angle referred to in the Bjornstad guide for the rappel... and some sort of old mashed bolt above.

Looking down Sand Tears from the ledge.

You ascend the wide crack on the right and mantle onto the block in the foreground, then downclimb into the notch and back up the crack to the tower highpoint on the left.

It wasn't until I got the idea in my mind to climb this thing that I realized how steep the first 25 feet are!

The route and "Goofy's Head" seen from the road. Sand Tears ends at the big ledge to the left of the crack 1/3 of the way to the top.

The route seen on end. Sand Tears ends at the big ledge on the left where the crack appears to first flare open.

The wide sections of the route. Sand Tears ends at the large ledge on the left after the easy OW warmup. Climbing through the crescent crack above was interesting... would have been nicer if it weren't so sandy and friable!

I leapfrogged the VG 9 and VG 12 a LONG ways (1/3 of the climb). The VG 12 was pretty lousy for most of it - I think having a #6 C4 or two would have been better. You can see the detached block & column below.

Beginning up Sand Fears proper from the top of Sand Tears. This was a fun and straightforward 6" crack, although it was pretty slippery from all of the sand lining the walls.

FINALLY easy climbing to the summit!

Beginning proper wyde action...

Brian on the summit and the downclimb crack in between. It was pretty sandy (see a theme here?).

Things are getting real, but not scary yet!

Route and first part of descent seen from near the La Sal Mountains Viewpoint.

$The column. This part was pretty easy to climb as you could slide a VG 9 up the right and place some smaller leaver gear on the left. Still sandy, though. Note the horizontal fracture demarcating the large detached block on top. BE CAREFUL!$

Le routes.

The route seen from the base. Note Brian for scale.

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