The C1 section that starts off P4. It's a bit tricky!

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The C1 section that starts off P4. It's a bit tricky!

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The 5th bolt on P1. Blew under body weight, sent me to the deck.

Atop the mantle on the bolt ladder of P4. (by Dirk Summers)

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Mark Thomas

Nov 18, 2019

“The C1 section that starts off P4. It's a bit tricky!”

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The 5th bolt on P1. Blew under body weight, sent me to the deck.

The C1 section that starts off P4. It's a bit tricky!

Atop the mantle on the bolt ladder of P4. (by Dirk Summers)

Bomber first placement in the roof crack. You can make this placement by tensioning off of a pink tricam placement above the belay.

Awkward 5.6 climbing to finish P5.

Finishing this section is awkward... (by Dirk Summers)

From the backside

Bolt from P1 that blew under body weight. Only ~1/2 inch was in the rock (left). Peg below which sheered when I attempted to aid past the blown bolt and fell (right). Please don't camouflage old bad bolts with new Fixe hangers.

Jon Burnham enjoying the ledge at the top of P1(P2)

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The tricam placement and big reach to get a cam in the roof crack on the left, seen from the belay. P5 was great!

Mike coming up the 4th pitch. The exposure is exciting!

Fun P6 pitch. Bring a light rack and the chimney will be much easier.

The exposure is great on the 5th pitch, where a short roof must be negotiated to gain the crown of Moenkopi caprock

Looking back from the roof on P5!

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Dirk at the end of the bolt ladder on P3, about to begin the mixed 5.7 free and C2 aid climbing to reach the lower anchor.

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The 'easy mantle or hook move' midway through P4. Neither was necessary. You can step high in your aiders, yarding on the great flake, and snag the rivet with a nut.

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bigfish

Andrew Gram leading Pitch 1 of the Colorado Northeast Ridge of the Kingfisher.