Heading to the bolts after coming down the exposed south spur of the summit.

All Locations > New Mexico > Las Cruces Area… > Organ Mountains > Sugarloaf Area > Sugarloaf > N Face (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R)

Heading to the bolts after coming down the exposed south spur of the summit.

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North Face route. The red line shows an alternate path. Photo [[106694734]].

Tito Alvidrez at the tree after P5. The new bolt is labeled at right. Alternate: follow the line at left (unprotected slab at first), building gear anchor in the corner (comfy), then continue up toward tree (protectable).

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4.6 from 5 votes

Michael Gonzalez

Aug 9, 2019

“Heading to the bolts after coming down the exposed south spur of the summit.”

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North Face route. The red line shows an alternate path. Photo [[106694734]].

Heading to the bolts after coming down the exposed south spur of the summit.

Tito Alvidrez at the tree after P5. The new bolt is labeled at right. Alternate: follow the line at left (unprotected slab at first), building gear anchor in the corner (comfy), then continue up toward tree (protectable).

Sergio at the hard-to-find bolts on top of Pitch 8. Photo Jesse Sharp.

1978 ascent by Stu Childre and David McDonald.

Terry, John, and myself at the summit

Summit shot after our full moon climb, Sept. 5-6, 2009

Heffe

Last 2013 summit, called it a great day :) (Dec 14th)

Somewhere high on the North Face route (around pitch 10?), as the sun gets ready to rise during our full moon climb, Sept 5-6, 2009.

Sunrise behind me during our full moon climb of Sugarloaf, Sept 5-6, 2009.

Heffe2

Your only pro for about 20m of runout on slab climbing. This is not the only runout on the route. From here it's another 20m to the next set of bolted anchors, you get good pro as you approach the anchors, but the climbing is more solid, so you might as well run it out to the anchors. By the way, you don't have to go to this bolt, so many variations on the route, but if you are following the 'bolted anchor' version of the route, you should.<br>
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There are a few bolts on the route that should be upgraded, and this is one of them.

Bob A. as the sun rises near the end of our full moon climb, Sept 5-6, 2009. (pitch 10 belay?)

Marta at the top of pitch 6

Looking back from the top of pitch 7

Helpful sign at the fork in the path. Left goes to climbing. Best to leave packs here to avoid bushwhacking back.

Sergio at the crux of the route on Pitch 7. Photo Jesse Sharp.

first pitch

Sugarloaf as seen during our approach for our full moon climb, the evening of September 5, 2009.

Drew plotting a course toward the solitary bolt on P5.

Looking up at our 5th pitch. We went right, protected at the crack, then run-out up and right to a set of bolts. Another option is to head straight up to the roof, then traverse right to the same set of bolts. you face a long run-out in either case on easy climbing. On a previous climb, we went straight up just right of the roof on scary run-out ground to the right facing overlap further up.

Nothing but stoke and incredible views!!

Chickenheads are fun!

Summit view - cold day, but it was beautiful

North face

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