Final section of the second pitch to our off-route variation.

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Final section of the second pitch to our off-route variation.

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Looking down our off-route variation over the Molar Tooth from atop the 2nd pitch. We knocked off most of the loose blocks, but you can see one still wedged & ready to go in the hand-traverse groove. Someone clean it up and the pitch will be great!

Brock leading up the first pitch of what turned out to be the wrong way to climb over the Molar Tooth. The cracks turned out to be a bit dirty and quite steep, but a couple of well-placed pitons and a bit more traffic could make this a very nice 5.9 pitch

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Mark P Thomas

Aug 6, 2019

“Final section of the second pitch to our off-route variation.”

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On the East Ridge snowfield.

The crux section of the East Ridge of the Grand Teton, with the standard variation shown in yellow.

We accidentally went the wrong way around the Molar Tooth. There were slings at each belay, but I suspect those were just rappel stations. Until I can find out if the line has been named, I am calling it 'Tricky Not-A-Traverse'!

The South side of the East Ridge of the Grand Teton seen from the Teepe Glacier. Tricky Traverse line isn't 100% certain but should be quite close to how I have drawn it here.

East Ridge of the Grand Teton seen from Mt Teewinot.

Crux section of the East Ridge - crossing the notch behind the Molar Tooth. 'p' is for piton.

The crux section of the East Ridge (climbing through the notch behind the Molar Tooth), and easy slab climbing above to the 2nd Tower bypass. The top half of this is fine to solo.

East Ride, Grand Teton in sun/shade. December

Looking down the East Ridge as you near the Molar Tooth. Most of this was cl. 2-3 with occasional steps of cl. 4-5, depending on routefinding. Expect to solo all of this.

Final push to the summit!

Nearing the Molar Tooth on the East Ridge. I think we were too close to the crest here. Take care on the routefinding on this section as it is difficult to match terrain to descriptions of finding The Window.

The East Ridge of the Grand Teton Molar Tooth area, with the standard variation shown in yellow. There is a bivy platform where the green line hits the far right edge of the ridge crest.

Approach linking up the trail to Amphitheater Lake to the East Ridge route and Grand Teton Glacier camp. 'x's are for fixed rods in the rock that can be used to protect the cl. 4 section.

The East Ridge of the Grand Teton, with the standard variations shown in yellow.

When passing around the North side of the Second Tower, after passing behind the large projecting flake, ascend this 5.6 chimney filled with blocks (right). The blocks seemed solid enough... after this it is an easy walk to the notch and a piton beyond.

When passing around the North side of the Second Tower, after a short ways East of the notch, do a short rappel or exposed downclimb to a ledge system that passes behind this projecting flake.

Brock starting into the 5.7 mantle crux. I found this section to be very hard for 5.7. Brock is very tall, so it was easier for him!

Looking down our off-route variation over the Molar Tooth from atop the 2nd pitch. We knocked off most of the loose blocks, but you can see one still wedged & ready to go in the hand-traverse groove. Someone clean it up and the pitch will be great!

Final section of the second pitch to our off-route variation.

Brock leading up the first pitch of what turned out to be the wrong way to climb over the Molar Tooth. The cracks turned out to be a bit dirty and quite steep, but a couple of well-placed pitons and a bit more traffic could make this a very nice 5.9 pitch

Brock starting up the second pitch of our off-route line over the Molar Tooth. The first tier was steep stemming/liebacking with a finger crack. The 2nd section was tight hands with a step right to pass through the flare.

Molar Tooth. Climb a 5.7 stem pitch with 2 pitons that reaches the notch in the far left side of the photo, pass underneath a small chockstone at the notch with rap slings around it to access the southern traverse and tricky traverse

Brock leading up the first section of the third pitch of our off-route variation. From here he traversed hard left around the corner and up steep blocks before regaining the ridge crest above the roof.

The top of the summit snowfield and the various finishing variations to the summit.

1st pitch of Tricky Traverse

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Brock Jones

Provo, UT