View from the Monkey's Mouth

All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (s) Monkey Face > Pioneer Route (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0)

View from the Monkey's Mouth

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Two followers standing on the nose, where the first rap station is

Awesome rap off the top!

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4.4 from 5 votes

Zachary Eagle

Aug 5, 2019

“View from the Monkey's Mouth”

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Nearby Photos

Stephanie Balbin on the bolt ladder. This photo also shows why it is important to get an early start.

Monkeys on the Monkey

On the bolt ladder. Photo taken by Andrew Eck.

Two followers standing on the nose, where the first rap station is

View from the Monkey's Mouth

Awesome rap off the top!

On top of the exposed 5.7 pitch, belaying Jeff who's about to step out onto Panic Point

Joey on the final moves of the aid pitch, close to the Mouth

Pioneer Route

Hanging in space: the long rapp down from the Nose.

Scott Bennett speed solos the Pioneer Route

I expect the bolt ladder is much more fun with aiders rather than yarding on draws

Max in the Monkey's Mouth belaying a leader

Tossing the rope from the Rap. Two 60M will get you back down from here.<br>
Don't toss the ropes from this spot when it's windy.

Setting up first short rappel

Jason Killian jugging the bolt ladder

Molly and River following the bolt ladder pitch

The slab on P2 is great fun!

Max on the aid section, photo taken by the non-climbing family member

The monkey face tower

Had the top to ourselves

View of the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face from adjacent cliff

The amazing free hanging rappel

The rap route from the summit to the base of the Pioneer Route. One short rap from the top chains, reset on the nose boulder chains, and then enjoy the ride. We used a 70m rope and a 70m tag line. Two 60m would work also.