Top anchor: bolt and 2 pitons. DO NOT RAP INTO THE GULLY! Stay on the face. All proceeding rap stations were gear and tat, which we added to or made ourselves. Red arrows denote general location of our rap stations.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Upper E Face > Zumie's Thumb (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Top anchor: bolt and 2 pitons. DO NOT RAP INTO THE GULLY! Stay on the face. All proceeding rap stations were gear and tat, which we added to or made ourselves. Red arrows denote general location of our rap stations.

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Green dot rap stations beta photo: after traversing from the Grassy ledge. Note this will get you to the snow couloir, but you'll have to downclimb snow, steeper than Lamb's Slide slope to get back to the beginning of the route! BRING CRAMPONS AND an AXE.

Pitches 4, 5, & 6 may not have been far enough climber's right. So search farther climber's right on the scramble to find a route that may better follow book and mountain project description. Our pitch 4/5 were OW/squeeze size crack. Pitch 6 overhung #3.

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Dave Mortier

Aug 4, 2019

“Top anchor: bolt and 2 pitons. DO NOT RAP INTO THE GULLY! Stay on the face. All proceeding rap stations were gear and tat, which we added to or made ourselves. Red arrows denote general location of our rap stations.”

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Nearby Photos

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

A route overlay for some routes on the Lower and Upper East Faces of Long's Peak.

Zumie's Thumb. Photo by Leo Paik. (I just added the label)

Pitch 1 or 2 (depending on how you break it up) to base of chimneys.

Pitch 4.

The pitch below the final Thumb pitch. We went directly up and encountered what felt like 5.10a climbing (but pretty good 5.10a climbing).

Chris Reinholt following the third pitch of Zumie's Thumb on 11-7-09, with Lamb's Slide and Chasm Lake down below. Photo by Chris Sheridan.

Pitch 5. Choose your own adventure.

The 5.9 crack leading to the top.

The crux headwall of Zumie's Thumb. Splitter cracks in great rock lead to an incredible summit block. Photo by Chris Sheridan.

Is it Colorado or Patagonia? Chris Reinholt midway up pitch 4 of Zumie's Thumb on 11-7-09.

Our exit pitch (we climbed out of notch rather than rappelling all the way to top of Lambs Slide). This pitch felt 5.10 and had generally good rock, but as always, watch what you pull on on untravelled rock. After this, it was walkoff terrain to the Loft.

Green dot rap stations beta photo: after traversing from the Grassy ledge. Note this will get you to the snow couloir, but you'll have to downclimb snow, steeper than Lamb's Slide slope to get back to the beginning of the route! BRING CRAMPONS AND an AXE.

Top anchor: bolt and 2 pitons. DO NOT RAP INTO THE GULLY! Stay on the face. All proceeding rap stations were gear and tat, which we added to or made ourselves. Red arrows denote general location of our rap stations.

Pitches 4, 5, & 6 may not have been far enough climber's right. So search farther climber's right on the scramble to find a route that may better follow book and mountain project description. Our pitch 4/5 were OW/squeeze size crack. Pitch 6 overhung #3.

Our general route. Pitches 1 and 2 match up with route description. We may not have scrambled up far enough climber's right though for pitches 4/5 noted on other photo. Our pitches 4&5 were offwidth (#4 and 5 cam size).

The route in its entirety from the upper reaches of Lamb's Slide.

Pitch 3 to the notch.

The chimneys on pitch 2. We didn't like the death blocks in the left one, and the right one looked hard. We decided to climb around to the right. Apparently it is also possible to climb around left.

Rappelling (single rope) into the notch behind Zumie's Thumb. We opted to climb out of the notch rather than rappel all the way down to the top of Lamb's Slide. If rappelling to Lamb's Slide, perhaps rappel the other direction with double ropes.

Our pitch 1. It is perhaps possible to climb further to the left as well.

An old pin on the final pitch to the top. This is right before a somewhat runnout section. You probably want to be pretty solid 5.9 leader for this pitch.

Looking down from the top. We opted to climb out of The Notch rather than rappel all the way down to the top of Lamb's Slide - a 1 rope rappel. If rappelling to Lamb's Slide, perhaps rappel the other direction with double ropes, and avoid the loose gully.

Chris Reinholt finishing up the last few moves of the fourth pitch of Zumie's Thumb on 11-7-09. Zumie's Couloir, a mysterious route that may or may not have been climbed leads up from the left. Photo by Chris Sheridan.

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